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Domaine Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne Passetoutgrain l'Exception, 2021

Red Wine from Burgundy, France
by Domaine Michel Lafarge
$49.99
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Passetoutgrain is Burgundy's forgotten workhorse appellation — a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay — and Lafarge makes the bottle that proves how good it can get. L'Exception earns its name: a single one-hectare parcel called Les Lombois, in Volnay right on the Meursault border, on clay-limestone, planted in 1928 and kept alive out of pure family stubbornness. The two varieties are picked together, which is the old way and the reason this wine has a coherence that most Passetoutgrain lacks. Gamay was exiled from the Côte d'Or in the late 14th century by Philip the Bold to protect Pinot's supremacy, so consider these near-century-old vines a small act of historical defiance. The farming is Demeter-certified biodynamic — the domaine has been since 2000, with horse-plowing in some parcels and free-roaming chickens working the rows — and the winemaking is deliberately unhurried: unfined and unfiltered. One of Volnay's great names, at its most disarming, and we're never allocated much.

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with herbs, a good burger, lentils with sausage, charcuterie boards, mushroom tart, or steak frites — this is a wine built for weeknight bistro cooking rather than the special-occasion roast.

Tasting Profile

The whole thing is about lift and drinkability rather than power. Serve slightly cool.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gamay , Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.

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