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Domaine Michel Lafarge, Bourgogne Passetoutgrains l'Exception, 2023

Red Wine from Burgundy, France
by Domaine Michel Lafarge
$46.99
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A rare Burgundy treasure from a legendary Volnay address. Frédéric Lafarge and his daughter Clothilde farm one of the Côte de Beaune's most respected biodynamic estates, and l'Exception is exactly what its name suggests: an extraordinary Passetoutgrains made from a single 1-hectare parcel called Les Lombois, on the Volnay-Meursault border, planted in 1928. Passetoutgrains is one of Burgundy's old traditional appellations (a co-fermented blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay), and here it is fielded at a roughly even 50/50 split from nearly century-old vines. Destemmed, fermented in concrete with ambient yeast, aged 15-18 months in used barrel, unfined and unfiltered. The 2023 is transparent and alive: red cherry, wild strawberry, raspberry, a whisper of pepper. Gamay's brightness lifting Pinot's structure. An absolute charmer.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"The 2023 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain L'Exceptionne was affected by a hailstorm on July 11, which means that this is the only Passetoutgrain cuvée this year. It has a Pinot Noir-driven bouquet that is more expressive than its 50% Gamay. The palate is balanced with juicy red and blue fruit and a rounded, nubile finish. Fine." —Neal Martin

Robert Parker

89 points

"Aromas of cherries, berries and petals preface the 2023 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain l'Exception, a medium-bodied, seamless and integrated red that's easygoing and charming. It will be drinkable on release." —William Kelley

More about

Michel Lafarge is Burgundy royalty—one of the greatest names in the game. His Aligoté comes from nearly 90-year-old vines (almost extinct elsewhere in Burgundy), planted in 1937. Whole-cluster pressed, fermented in steel with indigenous yeasts, aged in older barrels. It opens with honeysuckle and yuzu and tastes like centuries of tradition in a glass.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Charcuterie boards, roast chicken, mushroom pasta, coq au vin, grilled sausages, or a humble cheese plate. The kind of vibrant red that disappears at the table without anyone noticing.

Tasting Profile

Red cherry, wild strawberry, raspberry, white pepper, and damp forest-floor earth on the nose. Light- to medium-bodied, juicy and transparent, with bright acidity and silky, fine tannins.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Gamay , Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

LEARN

Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.

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