A vermouth built by an herbalist rather than a drinks company: Federico Cremasco works from a 1946 recipe he found in a recipe book from the late 1800s, and builds this one from 25 botanicals — three different varieties of wormwood among them — hand-cultivated in his own gardens or foraged wild around Polcenigo, in Friuli. Rather than throw everything into one pot, he extracts botanicals individually, by distillation or by hot or cold maceration, so each one gives up exactly as much as it should. The base is Verduzzo, a serious Friulian white aged nearly a year to build aroma before the herbs ever meet it — which is why this drinks like something made by a winemaker, not a flavoring house. It's unfiltered, 18% ABV, and the deep brown color comes from burnt sugar, as it traditionally does in sweet vermouth. Sagrestan is a family name in the literal sense: Fred's grandfather Pietro was the sagrestan — sexton — of the village church, and grew vines on the same ground that now grows the herbs. If your vermouth habit has been running on supermarket bottles, this is the one that reframes the category.