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Gabrielskloof, Syrah Whole Bunch, 2024

$25.99
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Whole bunches, bare feet, and almost no oak: this Syrah is made about as directly as a red wine can be. The fruit never goes near a destemmer — it's hand-picked, foot-stomped and fermented on the stems for ten days, then pressed into steel tanks (80%) and older barrels (20%) for ten months, which is why it drinks with such crunch and lift rather than weight. It comes from Gabrielskloof's Projects Range, the small, slightly quirky runs the cellar uses to chase ideas, and the estate's Bot River vineyards — Bokkeveld shale and sandstone with quartz, raked by southerly winds off Walker Bay and the Atlantic — give exactly the kind of perfumed, low-yielding Syrah this style needs. Peter-Allan Finlayson of Crystallum, who married into the family and took over the winemaking in 2015, brought the wild ferments, whole-bunch work and older oak with him; he's now Cellar Master alongside Anmar van Niekerk, who took the job at 28. The 2024 growing season was a wet winter and spring followed by difficult weather at flowering that cut yields, and the wines came in intense but lively. If you like your Syrah aromatic and juicy instead of dark and oaky, this is a serious amount of wine for the money.

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Antonio Galloni

91 points

"The 2024 Whole Bunch comes from Bot River Syrah matured in 25% new French oak. That whole bunch comes across expressively on the nose, though it doesn't overwhelm the fruit, white pepper and just a touch of clove infusing the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit laced with graphite. Gentle but insistent grip with quite an old school Cornas-like finish, thanks to a bit of reduction. Real character and fantastic value." —Neal Martin

More about Gabrielskloof

Gabrielskloof is where Peter-Allan Finlayson, the talent behind Crystallum and son of pioneering Cape winemaker Peter Finlayson, makes his Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Chenin Blanc, and it has become one of the most exciting addresses in South Africa's cool south.

The estate sits in Bot River, part of Walker Bay in the Western Cape, where Atlantic influence keeps things cool but the inland position lets grapes ripen evenly. It was founded in 2001 by the Heyns family; Peter-Allan, who married into it, made his first vintage here in 2015 and launched the Landscape Series the same year. The farm has two very different soils, free-draining, rocky sandstone with some quartz, and clay and shale, which is why you'll find Syrah bottled separately 'on Sandstone' and 'on Shale'. Vineyard work is done by hand, with straw and woodchip mulch in place of herbicides.

The whites draw on old, dry-farmed bush vines in the Swartland for the Elodie Chenin Blanc, and there's an amphora-fermented Sauvignon Blanc. Across the range, the style is fresh, restrained and built around texture rather than power.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Syrah

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Earthy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine:

100% Syrah

All fruit was hand-picked, foot-stomped, and whole-bunch fermented for 10 days

Aged in steel tanks (80%) and older barrels (20%) for 10 months.

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Lamb merguez off the grill, duck breast with plums, pepper-crusted steak frites, mushroom and thyme tart, or a braai of boerewors and grilled peppers. A light chill helps with charcuterie boards and roast chicken.

Tasting Profile

Redcurrant and plum on the nose with a floral, rosewater top note and a light peppery edge — juicy and succulent rather than heavily spicy. Medium-bodied, fresh acidity, fine stemmy tannins that add grip without drying, and a clean, savoury finish. Very little oak character.