Breuer doesn't release Berg Roseneck when it's bottled — the wine is put in glass the year after harvest and then held back until it's ready, which is why the 2017 is only now the current release. That patience is the whole point: at eight years old this bone-dry Riesling has traded its youthful snap for mature complexity, and it arrives singing rather than shouting. Berg Roseneck is an Erste Gewachs site in Rudesheim, its deep phyllite, clay and quartz slate soils giving the wine what the family calls a strongly soil-emphasised, long-lived character — naturally fermented, aged in stainless steel and used oak, so nothing gets between the site and the glass. Theresa Breuer took over the estate at twenty after her father Bernhard's sudden death, and has since farmed it organically and brought back large wooden barrels; Bernhard was the Charta man who put vineyard names and dry Rheingau Riesling back on the map. Getting a great Rheingau site with this much bottle age already behind it is a rarer thing than it sounds. Drink now or hold another five to seven years.