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Henriet-Bazin, Champagne Blanc de Noirs Pinot Meunier Brut, NV [2022]

$67.99
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Meunier almost never gets a stage of its own, and it almost never grows on limestone — this single-plot Champagne gives it both. "La Sente au Beurre" is one small parcel in Faverolles-et-Coëmy, out in the Vallée de l'Ardre west of Reims, where Meunier is the dominant grape; it's the highest plot Henriet-Bazin farms and it sits on the thickest band of limestone in their holdings, which the family credits for the delicacy you don't usually get from this variety. The exposure is south to southwest, catching direct sun from mid-morning until dusk, so the wine comes out rich and round while the limestone underneath keeps it fresh. Marie-Noëlle Henriet-Rainon, at a 7.75-hectare domaine founded in 1890, bought these Meunier vines in 1994 and farms them organically (uncertified) with HVE status and hand-harvesting. The house style is low dosage across the board, and each parcel rests nine months on its lees in the estate's enamel vats before bottling. If your mental file on Meunier reads "blending grape," this is the bottle that rewrites it.

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Wine Enthusiast

91 points

"A parcel in the northwest corner of the Champagne vineyards has produced this ripe, richly mature wine. It is attractively floral, with a taut edge and ripe creamed apple flavors. Drink this very approachable Champagne now." —Roger Voss

More about Henriet-bazin

Henriet-Bazin makes Champagne from both sides of an unusual divide on the Montagne de Reims. Their home village, Villers-Marmery, is a Premier Cru planted almost entirely to Chardonnay in what is otherwise Pinot Noir country. Next door, the family farms Grand Cru Pinot Noir in Verzy and Verzenay.

This is a true grower house (récoltant-manipulant), and it has been in the family for four generations. Gaston Henriet founded it in 1890. His son Robert took over in 1930 and his grandson Daniel in 1962. Daniel married Michelle Bazin, the daughter of a Villers-Marmery grower, and the house took both names. Their daughter Marie-Noëlle has run it since 1991. The estate covers just under eight hectares of chalk-based vineyards. It is HVE-certified and has more recently been converting to organic farming.

The range shows that split clearly. Blanc de Blancs from Villers-Marmery is all citrus cut and chalky grip, a fascinating counterpoint to Côte des Blancs Chardonnay. The Grand Cru Blanc de Noirs has red-fruited depth and tension. There's also a Meunier Blanc de Noirs, and Gaston et Louise, a zero-dosage Pinot Noir-Chardonnay blend drawing on a solera of reserve wines begun in 1968. Dosage is kept low, so these are Champagnes for the dinner table as much as the aperitif hour.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Meunier

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Crisp , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with tarragon, mushroom tart, fried chicken, pork rillettes and cornichons, or a plate of Comté and jambon de Bayonne. Good with salmon teriyaki or duck confit salad too.

Tasting Profile

Pale in colour for a Blanc de Noirs. Aromas of red apple, ripe pear and a little red berry, with bread-crust notes from the lees aging. Medium-bodied and round in the mouth — Meunier's generous side — but with brisk acidity and a mineral edge that keeps it lively. Very little sugar, so the finish is dry, clean and savory rather than fruity-sweet.

Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!