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Hofgut Falkenstein, Krettnacher Euchariusberg Kabinett Alte Reben AP #8, 2017

White Wine from Mosel, Germany
by Hofgut Falkenstein
$59.99
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April frost in 2017 cost the Mosel a third or more of its crop, the heaviest losses since 1991, and what survived came into the cellar with unusually high sugar and unusually high acid at the same time. That combination suits this bottling as well as any: the Alte Reben cask draws on roughly eighty-year-old ungrafted vines in the Gross Schock sector of the Krettnacher Euchariusberg, a south-facing pocket of deep gray slate, quartz and quartzite-bearing sandstone where the Webers own more land than anyone else. Erich Weber and his son Johannes prune to a single flat cane per vine, press whole bunches in an old spindle press and ferment on ambient yeasts in thousand-liter oak Fuder — there are no tanks anywhere on the property, so the AP number on the label is the wine's real identity. This is the most tightly wound of the four Alte Reben vintages here, and the slowest to unwind. From a private cellar; give it an hour in a decanter now, or leave it another five years and be repaid.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"While the Webers are highly sensitive to widespread overuse of the designation “Alte Reben,” the ungrafted vines for this A.P. #8 – in the long-celebrated Gross Schock portion of the Euchariusberg – are 80 years old. There is considerable pungency of yeasty, wild fermentative notes, but along with that intimations of apple, kiwi, lime and wet stone that then constitute the principal characters on a polished and delicate palate, where sweetness reinforces the lusciousness of fruit without precluding utmost transparency to crystalline stony and marine mineral nuances on the animatingly bright, invigoratingly tangy and mouthwateringly lingering finish." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

94 points

"From very old, ungrafted vines, the 2017 Krettnacher Euchariusberg Riesling Kabinett Alte Reben (AP 08) is very clear, fine and crunchy with its slatey, crystalline and flinty nose that reveals very elegant fruit. Lush and salty-piquant on the palate, this is a more crystalline and finessed Euchariusberg, and it reveals a super mineral, tensioned, very salty and grippy finish. The sweetness is perfectly integrated and seems to trickle off in the quartzite-bearing sandstone soils. Tasted in June 2019." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Hofgut Falkenstein

The Webers bought this Saar estate in 1981 and decided to do everything in barrel—fermentation, elevage, everything. No tanks at all. Each Fuder gets bottled separately, a restoration of old-time practice that lets you taste the micro-variations between casks from the same site. Minimal intervention since 2021-certified organic; this is Mosel winemaking as philosophy.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    750ml

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Oysters and littleneck clams on the half shell, hamachi or scallop crudo, ceviche, fresh chèvre, or prosciutto with melon.

Tasting Profile

Green apple, grapefruit pith and crushed stone, with the first hints of petrol coming through. Very light-bodied but dense in the middle, driven by bracing malic acidity that still outruns the small amount of sweetness. Firm, mineral and insistently long.

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WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!

Learn more about German Wines