A Vosne-Romanee premier cru from 2010 at sixteen years old, which is to say a wine from one of the Cote de Nuits' great classic vintages arriving right in its stride — limpid, pure and still structured, with mature complexity layered over the fruit. Les Chaumes lies at the southern edge of Vosne-Romanee on a vein of limestone and marl, directly below Aux Malconsorts, which in turn borders the grand cru La Tache; Jerome Chezeaux farms four-tenths of a hectare here. The wine marries Vosne's exotic spice and succulent fruit with the mineral force of neighboring Nuits-Saint-Georges, showing spice, licorice, roses, toasted bread and cocoa. Chezeaux is one of Burgundy's quieter names — a father-and-daughter domaine based in Premeaux-Prissey working about twelve hectares of old vines, destemming fully, fermenting with native yeasts, using modest new oak and bottling unfiltered after eighteen to twenty-four months of elevage. 2010 came from a difficult, low-yielding season rescued by a warm September, and the small berries and thick skins gave wines of remarkable purity. This bottle comes from a private cellar; it is drinking beautifully now and in no hurry.