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Julien Pineau, VDF Roche Blanche, 2024

$34.99
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This is Sauvignon Blanc from the vines of Clos Roche Blanche, a legendary Loire site — and Julien Pineau farms them now. When Catherine Roussel decided to sell, Pineau bought in alongside Laurent Saillard, the two splitting the twelve hectares down the middle; Julien took six, including the Sauvignon, plus Cot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pineau d'Aunis. His first vintage was 2015. Pineau came to all this late, by way of law and sociology degrees and a stint working for l'Alliance Française in Seattle and Sicily, which may explain why the wines feel less like a career than a conviction: the estate works with poor clay and silex over limestone, and everything here is made with zero sulfur. The bottling is declassified to Vin de France rather than Touraine, which tells you where the priorities sit. Sauvignon from this address, made this honestly, is a genuinely rare thing.

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More about Julien Pineau

Julien Pineau spent his post collegiate years a bit lost in the woods. Upon graduation he quickly realized that the professions of law and sociology, his focus in college, would bore him to tears. He spent the next couple of years working for l'Alliance Française in Seattle and Sicily. Originally from Tours, he returned there and supported himself with a series of odd jobs. He worked at an antique store, studied soil composition and, most fortuitously, picked fruit including grapes around Tours in the heart of Loire Valley. .

The Loire Valley is in many ways the heart and soul of the French natural wine movement and he quickly found himself working harvest for Lise and Bertrand Joussets in Montlouis. Bertrand took a liking to him and encouraged him to study viticulture. But Julien had a different idea. He thought a wine bar was the way to go and with a chef for dad, perhaps a wine-centric restaurant as well.

As Julien spent more time in the vines he found his heart was truly in the vineyards and soon came to realize that growing grapes and making wine was his life's work. As well as the Jousset’s, he worked the fields with Noella Morantin and Les Terres Promises in Provence. But it was his time working with Didier and Catherine Barouillet of the legendary Clos Roche Blanche that most influenced his future endeavors.

It is hard to overstate the importance of Clos Roche Blanche. Perhaps more than any other producer in the Loire they have influenced and inspired so many of the winemakers that we love and respect. A combination of exceptional terroir and the Barrouillet’s intentional yet minimal winemaking produced bottles of wine that were revelatory; alive and pure and with an ability to age that was counter to the ideas folks had about natural wine at the time.

In 2014, Catherine Roussel, the owner of the Clos Roche Blanche, decided to sell the winery. With the help of his business partner, Laurent Saillard, Julien purchased twelve of the estate's hectares. The vineyard work is focused on allowing natural diversity; the soils are permitted to exist in harmony with the hundreds of plants and insects that inhabit them. With an agronomist as a wife the plans are to continue to increase biodiversity with the inclusion of fruit trees and free-roaming animals. All of this is done to maintain and even enhance the inherited greatness of the Clos’s terroir.

The intense backbreaking work in the vineyard is contrasted by a relatively simple regiment in the cellar. Most wines see some level of partial carbonic fermentation before being pressed off. Different vessels of varying sizes and material are used for elevage but at some point most see some tine in neutral oak. There is never any sulfur used in Julien’s cellar.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Sauvignon Blanc

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Goat cheese — Sainte-Maure or Selles-sur-Cher — with a baguette; oysters and mignonette; sole meunière; a spring pea and mint risotto; chicken paillard with lemon and herbs; sushi and sashimi.

Tasting Profile

Dry white with citrus, green herbs and a chalky, flinty edge rather than loud tropical fruit. Medium-light body, bright but not sharp acidity, a slightly textured feel from the no-sulfur winemaking, and a clean, stony finish.

LEARN

Loire Valley Wines

The Loire Valley is France’s greatest source of value for anyone looking for elegant, terroir-driven wines. Our collection celebrates the region’s great diversity, with the mineral-driven whites of Muscadet and Sancerre, the beautiful Chenin Blancs and Cabernet Francs from villages like Vouvray and Chinon, and natural wines from everywhere in the region. Sometimes wonderfully fresh and gulpable, sometimes serious and age-worthy, the prices are always very reasonable.