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Laherte Freres, Champagne Petit Meslier Extra Brut [2022], NV

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
by Laherte Freres
$169.99
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Petit Meslier is one of Champagne's nearly-forgotten grapes, and almost nobody bottles it on its own — Aurélien Laherte does, and as the region warms its naturally piercing acidity has gone from curiosity to genuine asset. The fruit comes from massale-selected vines partway up the hill at Chavot, on rich clay-silt soils in the Coteaux Sud d'Epernay, and it is fermented and raised in wood like most of the estate's production, then finished at just 2 grams per liter of dosage. Laherte is the seventh generation on this domaine and has farmed organically and biodynamically since taking over in 2005; he also co-founded Terres et Vins de Champagne with Raphaël Berêche, the grower collective that pushed the region to taste its vins clairs as wine rather than base material. Flatiron has been recommending Laherte for years on the strength of one consistent quality: purity and drinkability across a lineup that ranges from crisp to downright vinous. Built on the 2022 harvest, this is the geekiest bottle in that range and one of the most exhilarating.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"The NV Extra Brut Petit Meslier is another new wine in this ever-expanding range. With its naturally bright acids, its no surprise the Petit Meslier is lifted and vibrant in feel. Citrus, white pepper, mint and chalk add a characteristic upper register of nuance. This really sizzles with tension and energy to match its airy personality. The blend is equal parts 2018 and 2017." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

90 points

"Based on the 2018 vintage, with some 40% reserve wines from 2017, the NV Extra-Brut Petit Meslier comes from young vines in Chavot. Offering up generous aromas of pear, honeyed orchard fruit, buttered toast and nuts, it's medium to full-bodied, with an impressively satiny attack for this variety and an unsurprisingly racy spine of acidity. It's more than just a curio." —William Kelley

More about

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Petit Meslier

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Crisp , Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Polaner Selections has to say about this wine:

VintageNVBottle Sizes750 MLCountryFranceRegionChampagneAppellationCoteaux Sud d'EpernayWine TypeSparklingVarietalsChardonnayVarietal Notes100% ChardonnayVineyard30-60-year-old vines in the villages of Vertus and Voipreux in the Côte des Blancs. The vineyards sit on the lower mid-slopes where the chalk is at its most prominent, capped off with a few cm of clay. Orientationeast facing. Bottom of the hillViticultureTraditional, done in a sustainable way and influenced by ecological methodsVinification100% free-run Chardonnay juice. Spontaneous yeast fermentation and ageing in 228L barrels, 100% malolactic fermentation, no added sulfur during the vinification or ageing. No filtration.Aging15 months sur lattes, zero dosage; Disgorgement April 2025

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Oysters on the half shell, sushi and sashimi, fried chicken, gougeres, salt-baked fish, aged Gruyere.

Tasting Profile

Green apple, quince, lemon zest and white flowers, with a faint herbal, almost hay-like note. Light bodied and bone dry with a fine, persistent bead, very high acidity and a long, chalky, citric finish.

Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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