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Lamoresca, Sicilia Bianco, 2025

White Wine from Sicily, Italy
by Lamoresca
$37.99
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A Sicilian white with actual grip: Vermentino given up to two days on its skins and then raised in big Slavonian oak casks, which is closer to how they make white wine in the Jura than anything you would expect from this latitude. Filippo Rizzo ran one of the first natural wine bars outside Paris — in Belgium, of all places — before returning to Sicily, making wine alongside Frank Cornelissen on Etna, and setting up on his own near Vittoria, on clay soils at roughly 430 meters. The estate is remarkably isolated, some 50 kilometers from the nearest working winery, which makes the organic farming of the vines, olive trees and prickly pear grove that much more effective. In the cellar there is no temperature control (the mountain air and the Mediterranean breeze do that job), malolactic runs naturally, and the wine is bottled unfined and unfiltered with barely any sulfur. It has structure and salinity to spare, and unlike most whites in this idiom it will reward a few years in the cellar.

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More about Lamoresca

Frank Cornelissen, Etna's natural wine legend, happens to come from Belgium. And then there is Filippo Rizzo, the man who opened one of the world’s first non-Parisian natural wine bars...in Belgium! After a bit, he moved back to his native Sicily, where he befriended Cornelissen and set out to make his own wines at Lamoresca.

Rizzo went looking a little south of Etna. He found some old vines and olive trees at about 450 meters above sea level, not far from Vittoria (of Occhipinti and COS fame) but quite a few miles from any other operating winery. While reclaiming and reviving the old Frappatto and Nero d'Avola vines, he made wine at Cornelissen’s, learning all of Frank’s secrets for attaining purity without sulfur.

Now Rizzo applies those lessons successfully at Lamoresca. The approach is extreme. There is no sulphur, of course (not even at bottling), and farming is completely natural. Nor is there temperature control—a possibility this far south only because of the cool mountain air and the breeze from the nearby Mediterranean.

Despite the hands-off approach, Rizzi eschews the “natural” label. Too much natural wine, he contends, tastes the same. His aim is to make something singular and representative of his own remote plot of land.

He has succeeded. They are a little more blue- and black-fruited than Frank’s wines, and a little fresher and airier than Occhipinti's. If Frank’s wines echo the wines of Piedmont, Rizzi’s are a touch closer to the Northern Rhone. But mostly they are just themselves: pure, delicious and self-confident.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Vermentino

  • Vintage

    2025

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled swordfish or sardines, pasta con le sarde, caponata, chicken roasted with herbs and lemon, aged pecorino.

Tasting Profile

Lemon, ripe peach and dried Mediterranean herbs with a briny, almost savory edge. Medium bodied and firmly textured, with brisk acidity and a long salty finish. Dry and quite structured for a white.