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Le Puy de L'Ours, L'Absurde Blanc De Noirs, 2023

$77.99
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The name says it all. L'Absurde, the absurd, is a white Burgundy made from Pinot Noir, a rarely seen direct-press blanc de noirs from one of Savigny-les-Beaune's most promising young domaines. Jean Orsoni and Juliette Puyperoux founded Le Puy de l'Ours in 2020 on family vineyards, farming organically and working with a notably light hand. This cuvee comes from a tiny 0.02-hectare selection within the Clos des Godeaux, from vines planted in 1968 on clay-limestone with white marl. The grapes are pressed whole-cluster, fermented with native yeasts, and aged ten to twelve months on the lees in 228 and 400-liter barrels. The result is something genuinely original: a white of remarkable texture, salinity, and quiet intensity. Tiny production, big imagination.

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More about Le Puy de L'Ours

Savigny-lès-Beaune is a fine place to look for new talent in Burgundy, and Le Puy de l'Ours is one of the most exciting young domaines working there. As Jean Orsoni puts it, the focus is "juiciness and precision."

The domaine belongs to Jean Orsoni and his wife Juliette Puyperoux. Put their surnames together and you get the name. Juliette's family have grown vines in Burgundy for around two centuries. Her grandparents stopped making wine in 2004 but kept the vineyards and leased them out. Jean has farming roots in Corsica. Both had careers in Paris (he in banking, she in wine sales) before they took back the family vines in 2019. Their first vintage was the difficult 2021, and the domaine now covers about seven hectares around Savigny and the Côte de Beaune.

Farming is certified organic. In the cellar, wines are made with minimal intervention, aged mostly in older barrels with little new oak, and get only small additions of sulfur. They aren't trying to fit a "natural" or "traditional" style. These are high-toned, lifted wines with real concentration underneath, and they come in Savigny rouge and blanc, a premier cru Les Lavières and L'Absurde, a rare still white made from Pinot Noir.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Pour with roast chicken, lobster with brown butter, scallops, or veal in cream sauce. Also pairs beautifully with aged comte, mushroom risotto, smoked trout, and pork loin with apples or stone fruit.

Tasting Profile

White peach, quince, almond, brioche, and a deep saline core. Medium-bodied with fine texture, mouth-coating without being heavy, and a long, savory finish. Genuinely singular: the structure of a serious white Burgundy, with hints of red-fruit ghost.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Biodynamic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

LEARN

Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.