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Malvira, Roero Riserva 'Renesio', 2013

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$47.99
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A mature Nebbiolo from Roero with a decade in the rearview — and from one of the few sites in the appellation that behaves like Barbaresco rather than like easygoing Roero. Most of Roero's sandy soils make Nebbiolo fruity and approachable but not especially serious; Renesio, at 260 to 320 metres above Canale, is calcareous clay, and the wines from soils like these have the structure to go the distance. It's also home to Malvira's oldest Nebbiolo vines, which is why this is the estate's Riserva bottling: the estate's Riserva from its oldest Nebbiolo vines. The vineyard name is a genuine piece of local history — archives of the Counts Roero, the medieval owners, record it as 'Reneysium', a word tied to the name of the Arneis grape, later 'Renexij' and then Italianised to 'Ornesio'. Roberto and Massimo Damonte took over their father Giuseppe's bulk-wine business in 1974 and rebuilt it as a quality estate; this is the wine that makes their case for Roero as a serious address. If you like aged Nebbiolo but not what aged Barbaresco costs, start here.

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Antonio Galloni

88 points

"The 2013 Roero Riserva Renesio is a powerful wine, but also a bit dried out. Worn-in leather, smoke and tobacco open up nicely, but these are nuances that are more typical of older wines. I am not sure there is enough fruit or varietal freshness to outlast the formidable tannins." —Antonio Galloni

More about Malvira

Malvirà works primarily in Roero, just across the river from the more famous Barbaresco and Barolo DOCs. Roero is distinct for its sandy soils, making the wines a little fruitier and more accessible, but also less serious and ageworthy. But certain sites within Roero have soils with high concentrations of limestone, and the wines from these sites behave a lot like Barbaresco.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2013

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine:

100% Nebbiolo from the Renesio vineyard

Calcareous clay soil

Harvested in October

Fermentation and maceration in stainless steel

Aged 24 months in French oak, plus 12 months in bottle prior to release

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Braised beef shank or brasato al Barolo, lamb shoulder with rosemary, mushroom and sausage lasagne, roast guinea hen or turkey with chestnut stuffing, aged Castelmagno or Parmigiano.

Tasting Profile

Classic older Nebbiolo: ruby fading toward orange at the rim. Medium to full bodied, with bright acidity and tannins that have softened into something fine-grained rather than grippy, and a long, dry, faintly bitter finish.

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