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Mandirola 1913, Colli Tortonesi Tantei Timorasso, 2022

White Wine from Piedmont, Italy
by Mandirola 1913
$45.99
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Tantei is not just a cuvee name — it is the historic Mandirola vineyard that holds the oldest known Timorasso plantings in the Colli Tortonesi, and the source of the cuttings taken in the late 1980s when growers set about rescuing the variety from near-extinction. That makes this about as close to the origin point of the modern Timorasso revival as a bottle gets. The Mandirola family has farmed at Casasco, in the Apennine foothills of southeastern Piedmont, since Enrico's great-grandfather bought the property in 1913; today it runs to 11 hectares under sustainable certification, on clay over grey limestone at roughly 300 meters. Fermentation is in the historic cellar's cement tanks, without fining and with filtration held to a minimum. With four years behind it, this is entering the phase where Timorasso starts trading primary fruit for its characteristic honeyed, flinty depth.

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Wine Enthusiast

86 points

"This wine is reserved and shy at the start. Once the wine develops, it features notes of green and McIntosh apples before lily and a hint of mint waft from the glass. The palate is bright and crisp, with a core of fruit that follows the nose but with an intriguing agave note on the light finish." —Jeff Porter

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More about Mandirola

If you love Timorasso, you owe Mandirola a thank-you. When growers in the Colli Tortonesi set out to rescue this nearly extinct white grape in the late 1980s, some of the earliest massal selections came from the family's Tantèi vineyard, home to the oldest known Timorasso plantings in the zone.

The story starts in 1913, when Enrico Mandirola's great-grandfather bought a small farm in Casasco, in the Apennine foothills of southeastern Piedmont near Tortona. Enrico, who studied both enology and agronomy, now runs the estate. It has grown to about 11 hectares of vines on clay over grey limestone at around 300 meters.

Timorasso is the heart of the range. The Derthona bottling takes its name from the old Roman name for Tortona and is the classic expression: dry, mineral and built to gain texture and depth with a few years in bottle. Tantèi comes from the historic old-vine site itself. There's also Mon Cavare, a rare traditional-method sparkling wine made entirely from Timorasso, which plays to the grape's high acidity and mineral bite. Taken together, it's a neat way to see why a grape that almost vanished is now one of Piedmont's most exciting whites.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Timorasso

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Crisp , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast guinea hen, veal Milanese, risotto with porcini, or aged Piedmontese cheeses. It has the body and texture to stand next to dishes usually reserved for red wine.

Tasting Profile

Ripe orchard fruit and citrus giving way to honey, hazelnut, beeswax and struck flint. Full-bodied and dry, with bracing acidity and a broad, waxy texture. Long, mineral, gently bitter finish.

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