Ohligsberg is the vineyard nearly every German grower names when asked about the very top sites of the Mosel, and this is the bone-dry version from one of the region's most talked-about young winemakers. It's a steep, south-facing site in the village of Wintrich on weathered blue and gray slate that soaks up heat and drains hard — but parts of it tuck into a side valley where cool breezes slide down, which is why the wines come out powerful and dark-fruited without giving up an ounce of firmness or electricity. Max Kilburg, a 20th-generation Mosel winemaker, farms his family's Geierslay estate plus his own micro-project of just 1.2 hectares of old-vine Grand Cru parcels, and he trained with Julian Haart — you can taste the rigor. He works this in a Grosses Gewächs-like style without the official GG label; Mosel growers themselves reach for Willi Schaefer's Domprobst as the comparison for its taut architecture. And 2023 rewarded exactly his kind of discipline: an exacting year with a fine line between ripe and over-ripe, where the growers who braked and closed out harvest before crossing that line made superb dry Grand Cru wines — arguably a breakthrough vintage for dry Mosel Riesling.