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Muller-Catoir, Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spätlese, 2004

White Wine from Pfalz, Germany
$49.99
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This 2004 Spätlese comes from an interesting point in Müller-Catoir's history: Martin Franzen had only arrived in 2002, taking over the cellar from Hans-Günther Schwarz, the winemaker who made Catoir famous. Schwarz was also known as a generous mentor to two generations of top winemakers in Germany, Austria and Alsace, so this is one of the first vintages made by the man who followed him. The fruit comes from Haardter Herrenletten, and the name tells you the site's history and geology at once. "Herren" refers to the noble landlords who owned the land in the Middle Ages, and "Letten" to the soil, a sandy clay with layers of limestone running through marly clay. The whole parcel is on a slope facing south and southeast at 157–180 metres, and the estate now ranks it VDP.Erste Lage, its premier cru level. We've called every Catoir bottle a love letter, with a minerality that runs through the wines whether they're dry or sweet. A mature Pfalz Spätlese like this one is a rare chance to taste that over time, and aged Riesling remains one of the most underrated pleasures in wine.

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Robert Parker

90 points

"The 2004 Haardter Herrenletten Riesling Spatlese smells of liqueur-like herbal and black fruit distillates, along with a touch of gooseberry and radish-like sharpness. The palate is thickly-textured, dense and creamy with black fruits, herbs and peach presenting a formidable but not (at least yet) sharply defined phalanx of flavor. “Where Burgergarten explodes on the palate, the Herrenletten is closed-in,” agrees Franzen. We’ll have to see what time brings." — David Schildknecht

More about Muller-Catoir

Every bottle of Müller-Catoir is a love letter. There is a visceral experience with these wines, like a pumice stone, a rough surface to a smooth finish. These aren't razor edged wines, forcing a point of view, they are edgy with secrets to share with those who are willing to listen.

This historic estate has had hundreds of years and plenty of talented winemakers to garner it critical acclaim. But never have they rested on their laurels, even now, with some of the most careful farming and strictest selection of grapes from anywhere. Whether dry or sweet, Riesling or Pinot Noir, young or old, the stark minerality of these wines will bring you back for more.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork belly with caramelized apples; Alsatian choucroute garnie; Thai larb or a mildly spicy green curry; smoked trout with horseradish cream; aged Comté or washed-rind cheeses like Époisses.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic off-dry Pfalz Spätlese profile: ripe peach, apricot and citrus, with a gentle sweetness balanced by bright, racy acidity and a stony minerality from the limestone-laced clay. With bottle age, Riesling like this typically picks up notes of honey, toast and a hint of petrol, while the finish stays long, fresh and clean.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!