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Pio Cesare, Barolo, 1998

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$69.99
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This is Pio Cesare's classic Barolo from 1998, now more than a quarter-century old, and someone else has already put in the patience Nebbiolo asks for. It's the house's signature blend rather than one of its single-vineyard bottlings, and the family insists it is not a "regular" Barolo. They bring together Nebbiolo from several villages, exposures and terroirs into one balanced wine. You give up the personality of a single site and get balance and completeness instead. Pio Cesare is also one of the few wineries still working in the centre of Alba itself. Its four-level cellar is built on the ancient Roman walls of Alba Pompeia, and it's the only producer allowed to put the city's crest on its labels. Stand the bottle upright for a day and decant it gently off any sediment.

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Antonio Galloni

90 points

"Deep red-ruby. High-toned but subdued aroma dominated by black cherry, camphor, mint, licorice and nutty oak. Juicy, sweet and fresh, with good flesh if not the sheer dimension of the '99. But this wine presents itself well now and should offer much earlier drinkability. Finishes with firm but ripe tannins." —Stephen Tanzer

Robert Parker

87 points

"The dark ruby-colored 1998 Barolo is a tough-textured, backward effort showing a certain austerity along with notes of minerals, earth, pepper, and truffles. Red fruit notes emerge as the wine sits in the glass, but this is a decidedly stern, backward, atypical 1998." —Robert M. Parker, Jr.

Wine Spectator

91 points

"Plum skins, with hints of fresh mushroom. Full-bodied, with raisin and spices and some berries. Balanced and chewy. Lovely."

Wine Enthusiast

87 points

"This wine is for lovers of an older style of Barolo. It has cherry and leather aromas, a touch of mint and white chocolate. On the palate, though, there is some leaness and astringency that is certainly classic and even elegant, but might not appeal to everyone. It should age, however, and the astringency should soften."

More about Pio Cesare

Piedmont institution since 1881, run now by Federica Rosy Boffa. Pio was one of the first to champion Barolo overseas in the 1950s. Eighty hectares across Barolo and Barbaresco, farmed with restraint and aged in big oak—wines that taste like a different era, in the best way.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    1998

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with butter and shaved white truffle; brasato al Barolo (beef braised in Barolo); roast pheasant or guinea fowl; risotto with porcini; aged Castelmagno or Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic profile of a mature, multi-village Barolo: dried cherry, violet and tar, with the leather, truffle, forest-floor and dried-herb notes long bottle age brings to Nebbiolo. Typically full of flavour without being heavy, it pairs firm tannins softened by time with lively acidity and a long, earthy, dry finish.