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Podere Le Boncie, Chiesamonti Rosso di Toscana, 2023

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Chiesamonti comes from a single 1.3-hectare parcel of stonier, lower-clay soil whose fruit used to disappear into Le Boncie's second wine, 'Cinque'; once the vines were old enough, Giovanna Morganti gave them their own bottling. It is mostly Sangiovese with a splash of Canaiolo, and it comes out high-toned and silky where the flagship Le Trame is deeper and more structured. Morganti farms three hectares at San Felice, in the southern Castelnuovo Berardenga end of Chianti Classico, on clay-limestone and at very high vine density; fermentation is slow and natural in open-top wooden casks, and ageing is long in large old Austrian and Slavonian oak. She walked away from the Chianti Classico DOCG years ago, so this is labeled simply Rosso di Toscana. Allocations have been tight for years and we can generally only offer these wines once a season.

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More about Podere Le Boncie

Chianti's traditionalist voice. Giovanna Morganti's three-hectare estate left the Chianti Classico consortium to gain freedom—and proved she needed it. Her Le Trame and Il Cinque bottlings emphasize Sangiovese's elegance over power, farmed sustainably and made with minimalist cellar work. In a sea of blockbuster Tuscans, her wines whisper. The whisper is worth hearing.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Sangiovese

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Bistecca alla fiorentina, pappardelle with wild boar ragu, ribollita, grilled lamb chops with rosemary, aged pecorino toscano.

Tasting Profile

Red cherry and wild strawberry with dried herbs, orange peel and a stony, earthy edge. Medium-bodied, bright acidity, fine chalky tannins, savory finish.

One reason that Weingut Hirsch's wines are so good is that Johannes Hirsch did a lot of things first. He was one of the first in Austria to dump Chardonnay and really focus on Kamptal's great varieties of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. He was one of the first to farm biodynamically. He was first to switch all closures to stelvin. So he's had a longer time to perfect this style of hyper-artisanal winemaking than virtually anyone else in Austria.

There were hiccups along the way. Not everyone loved the Rieslings from the late aughts that ended up with some residual sugar. But it turns out that this was just what nature wanted to do in those vintages. And since then, Hirsch (and nature) have made nothing but classical, dry Grüners and Rieslings. He has avoided the trend towards higher octane Austrian wines that we have seen elsewhere. With lower alcohol levels, Hirsch shows the pure, crystalline essence of Austrian Grüners and Rieslings.