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Produttori del Barbaresco, Barbaresco Riserva Ovello, 2017 (1.5L)

$179.00
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Only 1,128 magnums of the 2017 Ovello Riserva were made, and this is one of them: single-vineyard Barbaresco from the Produttori del Barbaresco, still among the best values for cellar-worthy wine anywhere. The Produttori nickname Ovello "The Tomboy." Its calcareous limestone is rich in clay, and together with a cooler microclimate that gives explosive fruit and firm, sometimes rough tannins that need a few years in bottle to settle into balance. The site has real pedigree, too: Domizio Cavazza already had vines here when he began making Barbaresco in 1894, and in 1967 Ovello was one of the first five vineyards the Produttori bottled on its own. 2017 was hard work in the vineyard. Spring frost, a May hailstorm in Ovello and a hot, dry summer cut the crop by about 20%, but the producer found the quality exciting and calls it a medium-bodied vintage with ripe, balanced tannins and an elegant finish, a welcome counterweight to this cru's muscle. The winemaking is old-school: 28 days on the skins and at least 30 months in large 25–50 hl oak barrels. The grapes come from eleven member families, among them Audasso, Cavallo, Gonella and Vacca. Getting into this co-op is so hard there's a waiting list, and members can't hold any wine back for labels of their own. The producer gives it 20 years from the vintage, and the magnum, the format collectors prize for slower aging, makes a proper centerpiece for the table.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is a heady, explosive wine. I don't think I have ever tasted an Ovello from the Produttori with this much heft. The strong mineral and saline accents typical of this site are present, but they are matched pound for pound by notable mid-palate richness and intensity in its fruit. The 2017 is a brooding powerhouse that needs time to unwind." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

94 points

"One of the bigger productions (with 17,744 bottles) in the Produttori del Barbaresco's portfolio is the 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello. All of the Riservas in this vintage are characterized by especially exuberant and bold aromas, and this bottle is a prime example. Cassis, wild cherry, tobacco, rusty nail and licorice build intensity. The wine is tapered and silky in texture, but it also offers a good amount of power (and 15% alcohol) to carry it through the aging process." —Monica Larner

Decanter

93 points

"The profile of this 2017 Riserva is completely different from the more graceful and balanced 2019. Nevertheless, the Ovello of Cantina Produttori del Barbaresco is a fiercely rustic yet good example. Restrained if not reductive, it opens up to reveal tobacco and dried cherry aromas with a lot of minty minerality. Austere and dark, it features crisp acidity and muscular tannins with a slightly rustic finish. Traditionally a great price-quality ratio."

Wine Spectator

94 points

"Taut and sinewy, boasting cherry, black currant, grass, iron and tar notes. Powerful tannins drive the finish, which is compact for now. In the end, this is lightly astringent, but has plenty of drive and should find equilibrium with time."

Kerin O'Keefe

93 points

"Menthol, star anise and blue flower aromas mingle with botanical herb. The full-bodied palate recalls cherry extract, licorice, fruitcake and baking spice alongside densely woven, fine-grained tannins. Drink through 2029." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Produttori del Barbaresco

Cooperative founded in 1958 with 51 members farming nearly 100 hectares of Nebbiolo in Barbaresco. From humble church basement beginnings, they now produce over 500,000 bottles annually, including nine single-vineyard cuvées. Real Barbaresco from the producers who saved the region's soul.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2017

  • Size

    1.5L

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with butter and sage or a meat ragù, porcini risotto, roast venison, braised veal shank, brasato al Nebbiolo.

Tasting Profile

Intense red fruit with mineral and spicy aromas. Medium to full body, with ripe, balanced tannins that still have a youthful grip. Elegant finish.