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Ramiro Ibanez, UBE Paganilla, 2025

White Wine from Jerez / Sherry, Spain
by Ramiro Ibanez
$37.99
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Paganilla is the most inland of Sanlucar's Atlantic pagos - barely 23 hectares of albariza laced with fossil diatoms - and it gives the most intense and structured wine in Ramiro Ibanez's UBE series. The two blocks sit on the layered white chalk locals call tosca de barajuela, 'deck of cards', planted on the hilltop in 1959, and on harder tosca cerrada on the south-facing slope below, planted in 1979. Like the rest of the range this is unfortified Palomino Fino, fermented with native yeasts in century-old manzanilla butts with no temperature control, then roughly eight months in cask with the last stretch under a light veil of flor. Ibanez has been rebuilding Sanlucar's tradition of single-vineyard table wine since 2015, and from the 2023 vintage these carry his own name rather than the old Cota 45 label. Refined and saline rather than showy - serve it cold but not frozen, and in a proper glass.

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More about Ramiro Ibanez

Long before sherry meant fortification and solera, Sanlúcar de Barrameda made white wine from named vineyards, and Ramiro Ibáñez has done more than anyone to bring that idea back. His UBE wines are unfortified Palomino from individual pagos, with the region's white albariza chalk doing the talking.

Ibáñez is a Sanlúcar native who grew up in the Doñana national park, where his family were forest guards. He trained as an oenologist, worked in Australia and Bordeaux, and consults for several of the area's bodegas. In 2012 he launched his own small project, Cota 45, working for years out of a converted boat-repair workshop in Bajo de Guía, on the Guadalquivir estuary. The UBE series began with the Carrascal and Maina pagos, with Miraflores and Paganilla following from 2018, each one a study in a different type of albariza, from flaky lentejuelas to the hard, cement-like tosca cerrada.

The wines ferment and age in old sherry butts for about eight months under a light veil of flor. The result is saline, savory and weightless, a manzanilla accent without the fortification. Serve them cold, in a proper wine glass.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Palomino

  • Vintage

    2025

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Grilled langoustines, salt-baked fish, arroz negro, aged Manchego, marcona almonds and olives.

Tasting Profile

Citrus peel, dried herbs, chalk and a faint bruised-apple flor note. Dry, medium-bodied and taut, high acidity, distinctly saline and mineral with a long finish.