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Romain Henin, Champagne La Bulle Libre Brut "L' Odyssee", 2023

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$119.99
Use code 10OFF to get 10% off 12+ bottles
A Champagne made with nothing added — no commercial yeast, no sulfur, and nothing to soften the edges. La Bulle Libre is Romain Hénin's own venture, launched after he took over from his father Pascal, and "L'Odyssée" is the cuvée where he chases that no-inputs ideal: native-yeast ferments, a year in barrel, and no dosage at bottling. The blend draws on Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir from the family's biodynamically farmed parcels in the Marne Valley, worked by hand rather than by tractor. 2023 was not a year that made this easy — rain ran from late July into September, and the fruit had to be sorted with real severity to justify a wine with no sulfur behind it. For anyone who has followed Champagne's low-intervention fringe and wondered how far it can be pushed while still tasting like Champagne, this is the experiment worth drinking.

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More about Romain Henin

Romain Henin makes Champagne the way the most radical natural winemakers make still wine: biodynamic vines, wild yeasts, a year in barrel, no added sulfur, and little or no dosage. It's a world away from the house style of most of his neighbors in Aÿ, and that was rather the point.

Henin comes from a Champagne growing family in Aÿ, on the Marne Valley's prime Pinot Noir slopes. After studying viticulture and oenology and working in the cellar at Champagne Henri Giraud, he joined the family estate, then left in 2015 over how the vines should be farmed. He started again from scratch in 2016 with about a hectare of rented vines, and in 2021 took over the family's roughly seven hectares around Aÿ and Mareuil-le-Port, which he now runs with his brother Thomas under the name La Bulle Libre, "the free bubble."

The farming is organic and biodynamic, with homemade plant preparations in place of chemicals and fruit trees planted among the vines for biodiversity. In the cellar, the grapes are hand-picked, fermented with native yeasts and aged on their lees in oak for a year, with no fining, filtration or sulfites. Expect Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Meunier from clay-limestone soils, mostly bottled bone dry. There's also a side project worth a look: Korrigans, a cider.

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Oysters on the half shell, fried chicken, a salty Comté and country bread, roast chicken with lemon, or pan-fried trout with brown butter.

Tasting Profile

Dry and bracing, with no sweetness at all to round it off.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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