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Simon Bize, Bourgogne Blanc Les Champlains, 2023

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Bize's whites have long tasted to us like Puligny-Montrachet with an orange-blossom twist, and Les Champlains performs that trick at the humblest rung of the Burgundy ladder. The parcel is four hectares of intensely pebbly, east-facing ground above Savigny-les-Beaune, so stony that the old dry-stone huts scattered across it are basically a soil report; nobody was farming it until Simon Bize decided to plant it in 1986. It isn't pure Chardonnay either, but about 95% Chardonnay with 5% Pinot Gris, an old Burgundian habit that lends a little extra breadth. Domaine Simon Bize is the reference address of Savigny, run since Patrick Bize's death in 2013 by his widow Chisa, who trained in biodynamics with Anne-Claude Leflaive and now farms part of the estate that way; the regional wines get native-yeast fermentation and restrained oak, exactly like the crus. 2023 was a hot year with a very generous crop, and the Chardonnays came in balanced and transparent rather than heavy. Drink over the next four or five years.

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Antonio Galloni

87 points

"The 2023 Bourgogne Blanc Champlains, from three plots in Savigny, was taken from vat on the lees. It has a pretty bouquet of orchard fruit and hints of dewy meadow. The palate is well balanced with good concentration. It might miss a bit of nerve for some, but I like its purity and the dab of lemongrass on the finish. Drink over two or three years." —Neal Martin

More about Simon Bize

Domaine Simon Bize hasn't changed much of anything in the last couple of decades, but the world around them is starting to catch up. They have always used a high percentage of whole clusters during fermentation (dependent on vintage) and very little new oak. They're style is perfectly suited to the terroir of Savigny and their wines have always emphasized the more savory aspects of Pinot: spices, herbs and earthy, gamey sauvage.

This approach isn't new, in fact it is somewhat similar to how many of the domaines in Burgundy would have made wine 100 years ago. But in the mid 20th century innovators like Henri Jayer begin advocating for 100% de-stemming along with longer macerations etc. The idea was to counterbalance the cold and difficult growing conditions in the Cote d'Or. Fast forward 50-60 years and Burgundy's weather has warmed significantly.

The changing climate along with a shift in consumer preferences to less oaky, less powerful wines puts Simon Bize back in the height of wine "fashion". But even when the "style" eventually goes out of fashion it is unlikely that Bize will change a thing. That is the legacy of the late, great Patrick Bize, and now his wife and family continue the tradition.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken with tarragon, scallops with brown butter, sole meuniere, or a plate of gruyere and cured ham.

Tasting Profile

Citrus and white orchard fruit with orange blossom and a chalky, stony edge. Medium-bodied and dry, with bright acidity, a subtle creamy texture from lees aging, and a clean mineral finish.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Map of Burgundy Wine Region

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Complete Guide to Burgundy

Burgundy is one of the world's most complex and rewarding wine regions — and one of the most misunderstood. This guide breaks it all down, from Chablis in the north to the Mâconnais in the south.