Aux Thorey is the climat people reach for when they want to argue that Nuits-Saint-Georges can be perfumed rather than muscular — often called the Volnay of the Côte de Nuits, sitting at the Vosne end of the commune on shallow limestone with fine gravel. Domaine Sylvain Cathiard, run by Sébastien from just over four hectares in Vosne-Romanée, is one of Burgundy's most chased addresses, and the winemaking is meticulous: complete destemming, a long cold maceration, indigenous-yeast fermentation, and a generous proportion of new oak, well over half the barrels at premier cru level. 2016 was the year of the catastrophic late-April frost, which cost this domaine roughly a quarter of its crop; what survived came in classically proportioned, floral and firm, built on structure rather than flesh. This bottle reaches us from a private cellar with nearly a decade of age on it, which has taken the edge off the tannin without touching the perfume — it is drinking well now and has a long road ahead. Stand it upright for a day and decant gently off the sediment an hour before serving.