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Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes, 2023

Red Wine from Burgundy, France
by Sylvie Esmonin
$114.99
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Old vines, village Gevrey, Sylvie Esmonin behind the wheel — this is the bottle to grab when the village cuvée feels too polite and the Clos Saint-Jacques feels too dear. The Vieilles Vignes comes from Esmonin's oldest village-level parcels, where decades of root depth translate into more concentration, more savory complexity, and more of that classic Gevrey muscle. Sylvie took over from her father Michel in 1989 and started bottling under her own name in 1996; her wines have only sharpened with each vintage. The 2023 is plush but firm — dark cherry, black plum, woodsmoke, crushed violet, and a long earthy finish that hints at the premier cru neighborhood. A serious Gevrey that punches well above village.

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Burghound

92 points

"( from older vines that average 75+ year old vines located in Aux Carougeot, Gueulpines, Aux Corvées, Combe de Dessus, Jouise, Epointures, En Sylvie, Les Marchais, En Derée, En Songe, En Vosne and both the villages and 1er portions of Clos Prieur). This is seriously reduced and while the skunky reduction does not extend to the palate, it dominates the fruit and then some. The larger-scaled flavors possess more size, weight and volume as the old vine sap imparts a suave and sappy mouthfeel before culminating in firm, rustic and youthfully austere finale. This is old school in style and clearly intended to age. I would add that my range obviously assumes that the nose will clean up appropriately." —Allen Meadows

Antonio Galloni

93 points

"The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes includes 50% whole bunch fruit and comes from several parcels in the south of the appellation. It has a well-defined, slightly introverted bouquet compared to the Village, focused and delineated despite some reduction. The palate is medium-bodied with a little more body than the Village, displaying ripe black cherries and strawberry confit. It is a little closed on the finish but one can sense the energy in this cuvée. Give this three or four years in bottle." —Neal Martin

More about Sylvie Esmonin

Domaine in Gevrey-Chambertin with a 15th-century family lineage and five hectares of vineyard. Sylvie studied oenology in Dijon and her wines are marked by high whole-cluster fermentation—lots of stem tannins, lots of terroir. Clos Saint-Jacques is their crown jewel.

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Braised short ribs, duck breast with cherry sauce, mushroom-and-marrow toast, grilled lamb with herbs, venison stew, or aged Comté. Gevrey for the cold months and the rich plates.

Tasting Profile

Plush but firm. Dark cherry, black plum, woodsmoke, crushed violet, and a long earthy finish that hints at premier-cru depth. Medium-plus body, fine-grained tannins, real Gevrey backbone.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Aurelien Suenen makes some of the most crystalline and pure Chardonnay with bubbles we've ever found. His vineyards are in the Côte de Blancs, a long north-to-south running escarpment of pure chalk. It faces east, where minerality is nearly a given; exploring each village and vineyard's nuanced expressions provide endless fun to the wine-obsessed (like us!).

Until the Grower movement of the last two decades, single vineyard wines were a rarity in Champagne. Of course, Salon has been always been a single vineyard wine, since 1905, and Pierre Péters started bottling Les Chetillons in 1971. Aurelien found inspiration from these star producers and followed suit, leading his own young generation with his site-specific bottlings.

To coax the most minerality out of the inherently salty, stony soils of the Côte de Blancs, Aurelien has converted his farming to organics, a challenge in this marginal and wet climate. In the cellar he has returned to using old, neutral barrels, along with old acacia and some concrete tun, allowing the wine to breath and coalesce over the long 6-8 month aging, before the second fermentation in the bottle.

Only indigenous yeasts are used, and paired with limited SO2, each barrel continues along its own path; some will complete malolactic fermentation and others will not. All of this just adds to the complexity of every vintage.

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