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Tenuta delle Terre Nere, Etna Rosso 'Prephylloxera', 2023

Red Wine from Sicily, Italy
by Tenuta delle Terre Nere
$199.99
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These are ungrafted vines — planted before phylloxera arrived in the 1880s, never grafted onto American rootstock, and now averaging more than 140 years old. The parcel is called La Vigna di Don Peppino: eight-tenths of a hectare inside contrada Calderara at 620 meters above Randazzo, on shallow, rock-strewn volcanic soil carrying only traces of ash, the vines head-trained as alberello and modified alberello, the whole thing yielding about 4,000 bottles. Marco de Grazia has bottled it separately since 2006 and treats it exactly like his other crus — fermented in tank and barrel, 14 months in French barriques and tonneaux, a month back in steel, bottled unfined and unfiltered — so what sets it apart is the roots and the ground, not the cellar. 2023 was brutal on Etna's north slope: a wet May and June brought downy mildew through flowering and the appellation's crop fell by more than 40 percent, though growers found that old head-trained bush vines came through it far better than trellised plantings, and what survived came in clean. The upshot is a small, concentrated, deeply savory vintage of Etna's most singular red — still tightly coiled at three years old, and worth burying for a decade.

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Antonio Galloni

97 points

"The 2023 Etna Rosso Prephylloxera La Vigna di Don Peppino Calderara Sottana opens like a flower shop on the nose, intensely layered with depths of black cherry and spice. This is more lifted and graceful than expected, with a sour citrus tinge, tart wild berry fruits and mineral tones. Edgy tannins pinch at the cheeks as the 2023 resonates with blue and purple inner florals and a bitter licorice concentration that lingers impossibly long."

Wine Spectator

95 points

"A polished red, exuding fragrant herb and loamy earth aromas, an overtone lacing a ripe core of red berry fruit flavors -- cherry, strawberry and raspberry. Effortlessly integrates fine, taut tannins and plum skininfused acidity, while the lasting finish echoes sandalwood, red licorice, sweet spice and mineral notes. Drink now through 2040."

More about Tenuta delle Terre Nere

Etna's obsession with geological purity finds its greatest expression at Terre Nere. Marc de Grazia didn't stumble onto this corner of Sicily in 2002—he engineered a masterclass in what happens when you let the volcano speak. Nearly 50 hectares of volcanic terroir, farmed with a reverence for old traditions, yielding Nerello Mascalese with an ethereal intensity that towers above most modern Italian reds. This is the wine that changed Etna from curiosity to command.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nerello Mascalese

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy , Elegant , Minerally

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Dry-aged ribeye, braised oxtail, roast squab, wild mushroom risotto with truffle, or long-aged Parmigiano.

Tasting Profile

Sour cherry, dried rose, tobacco, iron and a deep smoky minerality. Medium-bodied but intensely concentrated, with searing acidity and fine, insistent tannins on a very long finish. Tightly coiled — decant for hours or cellar it.

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