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Victoria Torres Pecis, Malvasia Aromatica Seca, 2023

White Wine from Canary Islands, Spain
$59.99
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Victoria Torres Pecis is the fifth-generation caretaker of her family's old winery in Fuencaliente, on the Canary island of La Palma, working ungrafted vines on black volcanic picon with almost no intervention. This is her dry Malvasia Aromatica (Malvasia Aromatica Seca), made from the aromatic Malvasia that La Palma is historically famous for, but vinified bone-dry rather than sweet. Expect heady floral and citrus aromatics framed by serious volcanic minerality and salinity, so the perfume never tips into heaviness. The 2023 is fresh and singular, made in tiny quantities. A fascinating, savory take on a grape most people only know in its sweet form.

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More about Victoria Torres Pecis

It’s the rare winemaker who must contemplate potential volcanic eruptions, but that’s the life Victoria Torres Pecis chose. She works on the island of La Palma, part of the Canary Islands chain, where there was a notable eruption in late 2021.

We talk a lot about ‘island wine’, as a concept, and Victoria’s wines encapsulate the extreme conditions found on her home turf. It’s the most north-westerly island in the archipelago, reaching further into the Atlantic Ocean and away from the mainland of Africa. Fierce winds constantly blow, and though it’s generally warm year round, its particular microclimate ensures lots of cloud cover and wet winters. It’s not an easy place to live, much less farm!

Because the Canary Islands are phylloxera-free (the vineyard pest cannot survive in soils of sand or ash, and La Palma is blanketed by dark volcanic ash called picón) that blankets the ground), the vines are quite old — in Victoria’s case, her family’s vines are easily 100+ years old. She also works diligently to source fruit from neighboring vineyards; this often means convincing farmers to work organically.

Her goal is to revitalize the island’s vineyards and to preserve the long-standing traditions of La Palma. She learned how to make wine from her father, and the family’s winery is rife with old, low-tech tools, like stone lagares (huge vats used to foot stomp grapes and start the fermentation process) and chestnut barrels. There’s no temperature control, native yeasts are employed, and aging is done in either stainless steel or very old American and French oak vessels.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Malvasia

  • Vintage

    2023

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Bowler Wine has to say about this wine:

Three different plots from the South of the Island, with the vineyards averaging 80 years-old. It was made partly on the skins and partly by direct press.

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Spiced and aromatic dishes, Thai or Vietnamese cuisine, grilled fish, or soft cheeses and charcuterie.

Tasting Profile

Heady florals, orange blossom, citrus and stone fruit over a salty, mineral base. Dry and medium-bodied with bright acidity and a clean, savory finish.