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Vollenweider, Riesling Goldgrube Spatlese, 2016

$49.99
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Spätlese here is not a dry wine: it is picked riper than the Kabinett and bottled in the classic fruity style, with real residual sugar and low alcohol, so buy it knowing you are getting sweetness held in check by very high acidity. Vollenweider draws it from different parcels of the Wolfer Goldgrube depending on what the year demands — the cooler western sections in warm vintages, the south-facing sites in cool ones — and including own-rooted, ungrafted old vines, which are rare anywhere and gives the wine its layered, low-yielding depth. 2016 was really two vintages stitched together: six weeks of spring rain brought downy mildew and ragged flowering that cut the crop hard, then the weather flipped in early July into a dry, sunny run capped by one of the hottest Septembers on record, so what survived came in both ripe and healthy. Fruity-style Kabinetts and Spätlesen are what that year is remembered for, prized for balance rather than sheer weight. At a decade old this bottle has started to trade primary peach for honey and a faint petrol note, and it has decades of road left.

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Antonio Galloni

90 points

"Peach, muskmelon and mango inform a seductively scented, succulent, creamy performance that preserves refreshing primary juiciness and delivers a finish of delightful lift and length. Crushed stone, smoky black tea and a hint of white raisin provide satisfying contrast, though this is not a Riesling characterized by notable brightness or focus." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

93 points

"From the Portz plot, the 2016 Riesling Wolfer Goldgrube Spätlese is very clear, piquant and fresh on the nose that shows lovely depth and a flinty tone. Round and piquant on the palate, with fresh, juicy fruit and stimulatingly salty acidity, this is a clear, straight and finessed Spätlese that's a great pleasure to drink not now but in 10 years." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Vollenweider

Farming old vines on the steep slopes of the Middle Mosel is hard work. And it doesn't pay well. With German wine prices staying so stubbornly low, we shouldn't be surprised that so many vineyard-owning families in earlier generations simply stopped working.

So, what motivates the growers who work so hard on such crazy sites, if not money? Sheer passion.

A small crop of vintners has come along, a new generation that's very interested in the old vines left fallow by their predecessors. Their interest, of course, is not from the point of view of agri-business, but something far more soulful. They feel a connection to the land and its history. They love Riesling, and they are in the middle of the greatest Riesling terroir on earth. They have very special land with very special old vines and they desperately want to see what kind of wine it can make.

The tragic passing of Daniel Vollenweider in the summer of 2022 left a hole in the Mosel wine community. Daniel was a beloved figure who produced a collection of glorious, terroir-transparent wines that helped define the style of contemporary Mosel Riesling.

Thankfully, Daniel laid out careful plans for the future of his eponymous estate, preparing his protégé, Moritz Hoffmann, to lead the winery into its next phase. Now in his third solo vintage, Moritz has truly come into his own as one of the Mosel’s top growers, bringing the estate to stunning new heights.

The domaine is rich in prime terroir, with ancient, un-grafted vines on the ultra-steep grand cru Wolfer Goldgrube. Here, Moritz crafts tiny quantities of wine with an almost maniacal attention to detail. All vineyard work is performed by hand (of course). The fruit is pressed in an old-school vertical basket press, fermented naturally, and aged in either stainless steel or large, neutral oak barrels. The wines are crystalline and pure, with gorgeous aromatics, incisive acidity, and unending length.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2016

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork with crackling, Sichuan mapo tofu, Thai green curry, duck with plums, or blue cheese with honey.

Tasting Profile

Yellow peach and mandarin edging toward honey, dried apricot and a whiff of petrol. Medium-bodied and clearly sweet on the palate, with searing Mosel acidity that keeps the long finish taut and fresh rather than heavy.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!