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Vollenweider, Riesling Goldgrube Spatlese, 2019

$46.99
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Spätlese here is not a dry wine: it is picked riper than the Kabinett and bottled in the classic fruity style, with real residual sugar and low alcohol, so buy it knowing you are getting sweetness held in check by very high acidity. Vollenweider draws it from different parcels of the Wolfer Goldgrube depending on what the year demands — the cooler western sections in warm vintages, the south-facing sites in cool ones — and always from own-rooted vines, which is rare anywhere and gives the wine its layered, low-yielding depth. 2019 brought a hot, dry summer to the Mosel, with record June and July heat thickening the grape skins, before rain around the 20th of September restored freshness in time for picking; the wines came out ripe and racy at once. At seven years old this bottle is just beginning to trade its primary peach for something deeper and more resinous. It is drinking beautifully now, with plenty of road ahead — Mosel Spätlese of this quality routinely runs for decades.

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Robert Parker

94 points

"The 2019 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spätlese is discreet and elegant yet concentrated on the sublime and flinty nose with its precise and perfectly healthy fruity aromas. Sweet and piquant on the palate, this is a mouth-filling yet playful and frisky Spätlese. It is slightly too sweet for my personal taste, but it is stimulatingly piquant on the finish. Keep the 2019 for a decade and it will be delicious." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Vollenweider

Farming old vines on the steep slopes of the Middle Mosel is hard work. And it doesn't pay well. With German wine prices staying so stubbornly low, we shouldn't be surprised that so many vineyard-owning families in earlier generations simply stopped working.

So, what motivates the growers who work so hard on such crazy sites, if not money? Sheer passion.

A small crop of vintners has come along, a new generation that's very interested in the old vines left fallow by their predecessors. Their interest, of course, is not from the point of view of agri-business, but something far more soulful. They feel a connection to the land and its history. They love Riesling, and they are in the middle of the greatest Riesling terroir on earth. They have very special land with very special old vines and they desperately want to see what kind of wine it can make.

The tragic passing of Daniel Vollenweider in the summer of 2022 left a hole in the Mosel wine community. Daniel was a beloved figure who produced a collection of glorious, terroir-transparent wines that helped define the style of contemporary Mosel Riesling.

Thankfully, Daniel laid out careful plans for the future of his eponymous estate, preparing his protégé, Moritz Hoffmann, to lead the winery into its next phase. Now in his third solo vintage, Moritz has truly come into his own as one of the Mosel’s top growers, bringing the estate to stunning new heights.

The domaine is rich in prime terroir, with ancient, un-grafted vines on the ultra-steep grand cru Wolfer Goldgrube. Here, Moritz crafts tiny quantities of wine with an almost maniacal attention to detail. All vineyard work is performed by hand (of course). The fruit is pressed in an old-school vertical basket press, fermented naturally, and aged in either stainless steel or large, neutral oak barrels. The wines are crystalline and pure, with gorgeous aromatics, incisive acidity, and unending length.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2019

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast pork with crackling, duck confit, Sichuan mapo tofu, curried chicken, or a fruit tart at the end of the meal.

Tasting Profile

Ripe yellow peach and apricot moving toward honey and petrol with age. Medium to full-bodied and distinctly sweet, with searing acidity keeping the long finish taut rather than heavy.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!