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Vollenweider, Riesling Goldgrube, 2023

$39.99
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Riesling from the Wolfer Goldgrube, the steep site above Traben-Trarbach where the estate has 90% of its five hectares of vines. What sets those vines apart is that many were never consolidated or replanted — partly ungrafted, some over a century old, still trained on the traditional single stake rather than wires — and they're farmed organically, certified, with everything picked by hand. In the cellar it's deliberately hands-off: indigenous yeasts, large oak casks and stainless steel, lees ageing, all pointed at salinity and structure rather than flash. Goldgrube has a signature that shows up vintage after vintage, a white-flower lift over real power and a herbal edge that keeps the whole thing fresh. Since 2019 the winery has been run jointly with Moritz Hoffmann, joined by Vinzent Ewest from 2025, and the grip on quality hasn't slipped an inch. For anyone who wants to understand why the Mosel's old own-rooted vines matter, this is the address.

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Robert Parker

93 points

"From the oldest parcels with ungrafted vines that are 100 to 120 years old and grapes with thicker skins, the 2023 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling trocken was pressed with an old basket press before the must fermented in 70% stück and 30% stainless steel for 12 months, and then the wine aged for another six months with its full lees in stainless steel. It offers a clear, savory, greenish or herbal nose with an elegant, slaty Riesling fruit. Full-bodied, lush and round on the palate, this is a light, crystalline and saline dry Goldgrube from an extremely stony terroir. This Goldgrube is fine, very saline and seriously structured with crunchy phenols and the pure salt of the gray slate and quartz soils of this spectacular steep terroir. The wine needs some time to gain in finesse and charm, but it is very promising. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in March 2026." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Vollenweider

Farming old vines on the steep slopes of the Middle Mosel is hard work. And it doesn't pay well. With German wine prices staying so stubbornly low, we shouldn't be surprised that so many vineyard-owning families in earlier generations simply stopped working.

So, what motivates the growers who work so hard on such crazy sites, if not money? Sheer passion.

A small crop of vintners has come along, a new generation that's very interested in the old vines left fallow by their predecessors. Their interest, of course, is not from the point of view of agri-business, but something far more soulful. They feel a connection to the land and its history. They love Riesling, and they are in the middle of the greatest Riesling terroir on earth. They have very special land with very special old vines and they desperately want to see what kind of wine it can make.

The tragic passing of Daniel Vollenweider in the summer of 2022 left a hole in the Mosel wine community. Daniel was a beloved figure who produced a collection of glorious, terroir-transparent wines that helped define the style of contemporary Mosel Riesling.

Thankfully, Daniel laid out careful plans for the future of his eponymous estate, preparing his protégé, Moritz Hoffmann, to lead the winery into its next phase. Now in his third solo vintage, Moritz has truly come into his own as one of the Mosel’s top growers, bringing the estate to stunning new heights.

The domaine is rich in prime terroir, with ancient, un-grafted vines on the ultra-steep grand cru Wolfer Goldgrube. Here, Moritz crafts tiny quantities of wine with an almost maniacal attention to detail. All vineyard work is performed by hand (of course). The fruit is pressed in an old-school vertical basket press, fermented naturally, and aged in either stainless steel or large, neutral oak barrels. The wines are crystalline and pure, with gorgeous aromatics, incisive acidity, and unending length.

Wine Details

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Thai green curry, Sichuan dry-fried green beans, pork belly bao, curried mussels, roast duck with cherries, or a washed-rind cheese like Époisses.

Tasting Profile

Lemon, white peach, pear and white flowers over wet-slate minerality. Light-bodied and low in alcohol, sweet on entry but cut clean by bright acidity, with a long, layered, refreshing finish.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!