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Hirsch, Riesling "Gaisberg", 2015

White Wine from Kamptal, Austria
by Hirsch
$66.99
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The Gaisberg is a steep, southwest-facing slope of siliceous brown earth over weathered mica schist in the cool Kamptal, and it makes Riesling of laser focus and stony intensity. Johannes Hirsch farms it biodynamically, letting the site speak in a dry, mineral register that has nothing to do with the sweeter German style. This 2015 has moved fully into maturity, its fruit deepening toward candied citrus and gentle petrol while the vineyard's stony tension refuses to fade. It's a mature Gaisberg at a lovely, resolved stage, and it's ready to pour.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"The haunting, esterous nose suggests rowan and white peach accompanied by kirsch and blueberry distillates. Firmer in feel than the corresponding Heiligenstein but bursting with midpalate flavor, this finishes with downright reverberative intensity; eye-watering brightness such as one least expects from 2015, not to mention mouthwatering salinity and consummate sheer refreshment. It seems to leave behind a load of crystalline stone and an alkaline residue you’ll have to scrape from your teeth." —David Schildknecht

Robert Parker

91 points

"The 2015 Kamptal Riesling Gaisberg 1ÖTW offers a clear, fresh and concentrated bouquet of super ripe white fleshed stone fruits. Full-bodied, fresh and piquant, with refreshing acidity, a certain tannin grip and first maturity that reveals a slightly drying but also juicy finish, this is excellent dry Riesling to be served with food. It is dense and well structured but won't age for decades." —Stephan Reinhardt

Wine Enthusiast

93 points

"The nose just gives a gentle hint of ripe apricot. The palate, on the other hand, speaks freely of zesty citrus: ripe lemon and fresh Seville orange, full of tart zestiness and refreshing zing. This is slender and linear, taut but chock-full of fruit. There is drive and energy and total refreshment." —Anne Krebiehl MW

More about

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2015

  • Size

    750ml

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roast chicken, smoked trout, mature Comté, or Alsatian-style pork and cabbage.

Tasting Profile

Bone-dry and mature, with candied citrus, gentle petrol, and enduring stony tension.

One reason that Weingut Hirsch's wines are so good is that Johannes Hirsch did a lot of things first. He was one of the first in Austria to dump Chardonnay and really focus on Kamptal's great varieties of Riesling and Grüner Veltliner. He was one of the first to farm biodynamically. He was first to switch all closures to stelvin. So he's had a longer time to perfect this style of hyper-artisanal winemaking than virtually anyone else in Austria.

There were hiccups along the way. Not everyone loved the Rieslings from the late aughts that ended up with some residual sugar. But it turns out that this was just what nature wanted to do in those vintages. And since then, Hirsch (and nature) have made nothing but classical, dry Grüners and Rieslings. He has avoided the trend towards higher octane Austrian wines that we have seen elsewhere. With lower alcohol levels, Hirsch shows the pure, crystalline essence of Austrian Grüners and Rieslings.