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Willi Schaefer, Graacher Domprobst Auslese AP #09, 2004

$99.99
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This is a twenty-year-old Auslese from Graacher Domprobst, the Schaefer vineyard known for making you wait. Domprobst is the smokier, more mineral and more shadowy of the estate's two Graach sites, and it takes longer to come around than Himmelreich next door, which is livelier and more floral. Its weathered Devonian slate sits on clay, over a large water table. To many of us, Willi Schaefer is the platonic ideal of Mosel Riesling. It's a family estate dating back to 1590 that makes only Riesling, from 4.2 hectares of steep slate with ungrafted vines up to a century old. The Schaefers' many small plots differ from one another, so they often bottle several wines from the same vineyard and Prädikat in one year. The only way to tell them apart is the wine number tucked into the A.P. code, and that's what "#09" means here: one specific Domprobst Auslese bottling from 2004. (The estate only began tying numbers to fixed styles with the 2015 vintage, so don't read any more into it than that.) The estate makes about 2,900 cases a year, so mature sweet Riesling from it doesn't come our way often.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"Scents of apple blossom, white raisin and quince are highlighted by a hint of spicy botrytis. Rich, candied fruit shows a velvety texture, but the minty acidity keeps the palate fresh. Dense yet light on its feet, with mineral salts providing spiciness on the elegant, long finish." —Joel B. Payne

More about Willi Schaefer

Christoph and Andrea Schaefer don't have much land (just over four hectares), but that’s not really why their wines are so hard to get. If they had twice the acreage it would still sell out many times over. The wines are just that good – and that coveted by collectors (and drinkers!) worldwide.

In fact, they're a sort of platonic ideal of Mosel Riesling. The family is one of Germany’s great traditionalist producers, doing everything old school and low tech, but making absolute pure and marvelously complex wines – the kind that are often called “filigreed.” With lots of ungrafted old vines (phylloxera doesn't do so well in the stony slate soils) they have intense minerality, but with plenty of sun on the steep, steep slopes, there’s tons of laser-focused fruit, too.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Sweet

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Foie gras terrine with toasted brioche; Roquefort or Stilton with walnuts; apple tarte tatin; glazed pork belly; mildly spicy Thai dishes such as red curry with duck.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Mosel Auslese profile: ripe peach, apricot and honeyed citrus, plus the savoury, petrol-tinged notes that mature Riesling picks up with bottle age. Domprobst typically adds a smoky, slaty minerality. The body stays light, and bright, racy acidity balances the sweetness, so the long finish tastes fresh rather than heavy.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!