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Willi Schaefer, Graacher Domprobst Auslese AP #10, 2007

$109.99
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This is a 2007 Auslese from Graacher Domprobst, the Schaefer vineyard built for patience, and a chance to meet it with real years behind it. Domprobst is a steep enclave inside Graacher Himmelreich. It's weathered Devonian slate under a deep, clay-rich topsoil, on a 45 to 75 percent slope facing south-southwest. That clay gives the wines more power: they're smokier, more mineral and more shadowy than the buoyant Himmelreich wines, they take longer to emerge, and they age more or less forever. (For the table: the name comes from the Cathedral Provost of Trier, who was owed a third of Graach's wine tithes.) To many of us, Willi Schaefer is the platonic ideal of Mosel Riesling: just 4.2 hectares, nothing but Riesling, and winemaking guided by taste rather than analysis, from picking each plot through natural-yeast fermentation. Some years the estate bottles several separate Domprobst Auslesen, and the wine number in the A.P. code is how you tell them apart, so "#10" marks one specific 2007 bottling, made before Christoph and Andrea Schaefer took over in 2015. The whole estate makes only about 2,900 cases a year, so aged sweet Riesling from Schaefer rarely comes our way.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"Golden yellow. Rich m ango, clover and lemon oil on the nose. Sleek and refined on the palate, with a juicy, mouthwatering freshness. Finishes gracefully, with flavors of tropical fruits, almond and slate. Very nicely balanced." —Joel B. Payne

Robert Parker

95 points

"The 2007 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Auslese A.P. #10 brilliantly illustrates one of Willi Schaefer’s guiding principles. He admits to having only once even been tempted to render a T.B.A., believing that his wines lose too much of their complexity and interplay of flavors – not to mention refreshment – if deprived of those juicy green golden berries that he calls “the beautiful, racy ones.” Similarly, this A.P.#10 is, he says, the much better Auslese that resulted from incorporating more fresh, green-gold berries into what would otherwise have been a 2007 Beerenauslese. A dramatically penetrating nose of orchard fruit distillates, candied grapefruit rind, honey, and white truffles ushers in a sumptuous, silken-smooth, subtly creamy, yet at the same time juicy and pungently zest and spicy palate. Nut cream, honey, and white raisin mingle with pear nectar, luscious citrus, and sappy apple. I can only describe the finish here as tingling and shimmering despite its sheer richness and sweetness. As impressive as this is today, it will be yet more exciting with time, and the luckiest among you will still be wondering at it in 30 years." —David Schildknecht

Wine Spectator

94 points

"Crystal clear and lush to boot, this auslese delivers apricot, honey, lime and slate flavors, which ride the vibrant structure through the finish, where they remain focused and persistent."

More about Willi Schaefer

Christoph and Andrea Schaefer don't have much land (just over four hectares), but that’s not really why their wines are so hard to get. If they had twice the acreage it would still sell out many times over. The wines are just that good – and that coveted by collectors (and drinkers!) worldwide.

In fact, they're a sort of platonic ideal of Mosel Riesling. The family is one of Germany’s great traditionalist producers, doing everything old school and low tech, but making absolute pure and marvelously complex wines – the kind that are often called “filigreed.” With lots of ungrafted old vines (phylloxera doesn't do so well in the stony slate soils) they have intense minerality, but with plenty of sun on the steep, steep slopes, there’s tons of laser-focused fruit, too.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2007

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Sweet

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Foie gras terrine with toasted brioche; Roquefort or Stilton with walnuts; apple tarte tatin; glazed pork belly; mildly spicy Thai dishes such as duck red curry.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Mosel Auslese profile: ripe peach, apricot and citrus with honeyed sweetness, carried on a light-to-medium body by the racy acidity that keeps Mosel Riesling light on its feet. Domprobst typically adds smoky, slaty minerality and darker, earthier, more herbal fruit. It's sweet but never heavy, finishing long and bright, and it's built to age.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!