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Willi Schaefer, Riesling Spätlese Graacher Domprobst #5, 2019

$75.99

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This is a Grosse Lage Spätlese from the estate many consider the platonic ideal of Mosel Riesling, and it comes from the wilder, more powerful of Schaefer's Graach vineyards. Graacher Domprobst is a steep slope of weathered Devonian slate, 45 to 75 percent, facing south-southwest at 120 to 260 metres. What sets it apart is a deep, clay-rich topsoil: Domprobst wines tend to be earthier and spicier than those from Himmelreich, the vineyard that surrounds it, and they take their time to come around. (For the trivia-minded, the name comes from the Cathedral Provost of Trier, who was owed a third of Graach's wine tithes.) Christoph and Andrea Schaefer met while studying enology at Geisenheim. They ferment spontaneously in old 1,000-litre Fuder casks and track each barrel's balance of sweetness and acidity. In 2019 they bottled several separate Domprobst Spätlesen, and this is one of them. The year was one of the estate's warmer vintages, the kind that brings richer fruit and softer acidity than the cool years. Schaefer farms just 4.2 hectares and makes only Riesling, so these bottles are never easy to come by.

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Robert Parker

95 points

"The 2019 Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spätlese #5 is clear and coolish on the flinty nose that represents perfectly ripe and precise fruit with some minty notes. Lush and piquant on the palate, this is a pure, tight, refreshing, stimulatingly piquant and salty and finessed Spätlese with a lot of grip and expression. Tasted from AP 5 20 in June 2020." —Stephan Reinhardt

More about Willi Schaefer

Christoph and Andrea Schaefer don't have much land (just over four hectares), but that’s not really why their wines are so hard to get. If they had twice the acreage it would still sell out many times over. The wines are just that good – and that coveted by collectors (and drinkers!) worldwide.

In fact, they're a sort of platonic ideal of Mosel Riesling. The family is one of Germany’s great traditionalist producers, doing everything old school and low tech, but making absolute pure and marvelously complex wines – the kind that are often called “filigreed.” With lots of ungrafted old vines (phylloxera doesn't do so well in the stony slate soils) they have intense minerality, but with plenty of sun on the steep, steep slopes, there’s tons of laser-focused fruit, too.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    2019

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Off-Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Thai larb or green papaya salad, Sichuan twice-cooked pork, roast pork belly with apples, smoked trout on rye, or a wedge of aged Gouda.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Mosel Spätlese profile: ripe peach, apricot and citrus, with the earthier, spicier edge Domprobst's slate and clay soils are known for. Medium-bodied and off-dry, its gentle sweetness is balanced by bright, mouthwatering acidity and a steely slate minerality, leading to a long, clean finish. Typically built to age and reward patience.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!