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Wiston, English Sparkling Brut, NV

Sparkling Wine from England, England
by Wiston
$44.99
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The same Cretaceous chalk seam that runs beneath Champagne surfaces again on the South Downs, about ten miles from the English Channel — and Wiston's Brut is one of the more convincing arguments that England's version deserves to sit beside it. The Goring family has held the West Sussex estate since 1743, but the vines went in only in 2006, when Pip Goring finally got her 16-acre south-facing planting of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier on flint-strewn chalk; a Chardonnay-only block followed in 2017. Every variety is whole-bunch pressed in a Coquard basket press imported from France in 2008 — the first in Britain — then fermented in steel and given eight months on the lees before bottling. The Brut is 35% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir and 30% Meunier, with 20–30% reserve wine from the estate's earliest vintages, three to five years on lees in bottle, and a restrained 8 g/L dosage. Dermot Sugrue made the wines here through 2022; Marcus and Megan Rayner-Ward have the cellar now.

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Robert Parker

88 points

"The NV Brut is a blend of one-third each Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier that is matured entirely in stainless steel. It has a fresh cooking apple bouquet with light granitic notes, but unlike the Blanc de Blancs from Wiston, I would have liked more tension and energy conveyed here. The palate is better than the aromatics: crisp acidity with touches of spice, citrus peel and a pleasing saline finish. It improves as it opens in the glass." —Neal Martin

More about Wiston

Wiston is one of the estates that made the case for English sparkling wine as a serious rival to Champagne, and it does it on the same chalk. The vines grow on the South Downs in West Sussex, a few miles from the coast, on the Cretaceous chalk that also runs under Champagne.

The Goring family has owned Wiston since 1743, but vines are a recent arrival. Pip Goring, who grew up in South Africa's Franschhoek, lobbied for a vineyard for some thirty years before the first Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier went in in 2006. Dermot Sugrue, the founding winemaker, set up the cellar in a converted turkey shed with an old wooden Coquard basket press bought from Champagne and secondhand barrels; Marcus Rayner-Ward, who worked alongside him from 2018, now runs it, with his wife Megan as assistant winemaker. The next generation of Gorings, Rick and Kirsty, manage the estate and farm without synthetic chemicals, though without certification.

The style is all tension and chalky salinity, with real depth from long lees aging and, for the non-vintage Brut, a stock of reserve wines reaching back to the estate's first harvests. Look for the Brut and Rosé for everyday pleasure and the vintage cuvées for the cellar.

Wine Details

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Skurnik Wines has to say about this wine:

35% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier

Sourced from estate vineyards planted on flinty chalk-based soils

Hand harvested

Each variety is gently whole-bunch pressed then goes through primary fermentation in steel tanks

Lees aging for 8 months in steel tanks

Blended and bottled with 20-30% reserve wine dating back to 2008

Slow secondary fermentation in bottle, kept on lees at 9-11C for 3-5 years

Riddled and disgorged with a dosage of 8g/L

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Oysters, fish and chips, fried chicken, Comté and Montgomery cheddar, smoked trout, or a plate of prosciutto. Fine on its own as an aperitif.

Tasting Profile

Green apple, lemon, sourdough crust and grilled walnut, with apple compote and candied citrus peel on the palate. Light-bodied, fine-beaded, crisp and long, finishing dry and mineral.