A Great Rosé Defies Borders (and Expectations): Rozsa Petsovits
A little over a hundred years ago, the border between Austria and Hungary was more of a suggestion than a hard geopolitical line. They were ruled by the same family (the Hapsburgs), and many families passed between the two. That’s why Fritz Weninger — a modern winemaker living and working in Austria’s Burgenland — inherited a parcel of vines in Hungary that once belonged to his grandmother.
Rózsa Petsovits is the name of Fritz’s grandmother, and it’s also the name of one of our favorite and most interesting rosés. It’s a blend of Hungarian Syrah grown on gneiss soils, Austrian Zweigelt grown on loam, and Austrian Pinot Noir from limestone soils. It’s dark in color, a vibrant hot pink that brings to mind watermelon juice or freshly muddled raspberry.
Rozsa Petsovits is a true gastronomic rosé, with flavors of fruit (those fresh raspberries again, a hint of blood orange), spice (black pepper, cinnamon, orange zest), and minerals (Sopron’s volcanic soils come through, and the limestone of Mittelburgenland). It’s fun and refreshing, sure, but there’s a savory, slightly smoky element that makes it suitable for short-term aging or pairing with more complex fare. We’d be remiss if we didn’t recommend socking away a couple of bottles to drink at Thanksgiving.
This is a rosé that defies all expectations of the genre. It’s a delicious expression of Austria and Hungary’s unique terroirs and a glimpse at how much can change in a few generations’ time. It’s been a couple of years since we offered this wine in our newsletter, but it’s been a staff and customer favorite for a very long time and we’re very pleased to share it with you today, especially since today’s discounting makes this affordable gem even more tempting:
Weninger, Rozsa Petsovits XXII, NV (2022) $19.99
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