An Ethereal Chardonnay from the Willamette's Wonderful Kelley Fox
The anxiously awaited the new releases from the miraculous 2022 vintage in Oregon, with the Chardonnays in particularly short supply. The year started with a devastating April frost that had growers praying for a long season to allow the fruit to catch up; as if on cue, it ended with the most beautiful October imaginable. An enormous sigh of relief was nearly palpable throughout the Willamette Valley as those extra weeks of autumn hang time delivered spectacular depth and complexity of flavor.
Now we get to taste them.
Our offer today comes from a winemaker who’s long had both our staff and customers smitten. Upon first discovery of Kelley Fox, you might learn about her biodynamic and regenerative principles, listen to her discuss her “vulnerable" and "non-hierarchical” approach to winemaking, or even admire the fanciful, fairytale-like artwork on her labels. And you might anticipate from this a rather dreamy, head-in-the-clouds winemaking style not unheard of in crunchy Oregon, but often a bit light on technique.
You’d be in for a surprise from this trained biochemist and David Lett protégée. Her wines are full of life and energy, but they also show off the impressive talent and skill that has convinced some of the Willamette Valley’s best growers to entrust Fox with their prize sites.
The Dux vineyard is a great example. It was planted in 2011 at about 450 feet on classic bright-red Jory soil in the Dundee Hills, at a gentle southern exposure, and it produces filigreed, ethereal Chardonnay with a classic Dundee Hills balance of searing acid and pillowy texture. Fox's pretty, cherry-tree-lined block was planted with Draper Heritage Selection Chardonnay cuttings from Abbey Ridge. The 2022 vintage brought both generous, complete aromatics and graceful structure, and it’s all on display here.
This is one of our favorite examples of Kelley Fox's style, and you simply must try it.
Kelley Fox, Chardonnay Dux Vyd Dundee Hills, 2022 $49.99
"A brilliant silver straw hue, the 2022 Chardonnay Dux Vineyard is pure with aromas of wet stone, green pear, fresh white flowers, and lemongrass. Medium-bodied, it has focused energy and high-toned notes, although it’s not austere and is matched with density and a weightless feel. I usually like to avoid the word “ethereal,” but that’s how this wine feels. It’s pure without being reductive. Drink it over the next 6-8 years. 94 points" Audrey Frick, JebDunnuck.com
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