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Aldo Conterno, Barolo Colonnello, 2004

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
by Aldo Conterno
$199.99
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A flagship cru from Aldo Conterno's Bussia holdings, in a great vintage hitting its window. Aldo Conterno — who passed in 2012 — was one of Monforte d'Alba's legendary traditionalists, and Colonnello sits alongside Cicala and Romirasco as the trio of single-cru Barolos drawn from the estate's Bussia MGA. Sons Stefano and Giacomo carry the work forward today. Colonnello tends to be the most elegant and aromatic of the three — perfumed Bussia Nebbiolo of finesse rather than power. The 2004 vintage gave classical structure and ripeness in equal measure, and twenty-one years on, this is fully in its drinking window: dried rose, sweet earth, tobacco, and the unmistakable Bussia spice, all wrapped in resolved, satiny tannins.

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Antonio Galloni

94 points

"Conterno's 2004 Barolo Colonnello reveals a core of ripe dark cherries and a beautifully layered, sweet personality with superb length and a refined, fresh finish. With air the wine's perfumed, spiced qualities emerge to complete this terrific effort. The Colonnello vineyard lies on the Monforte border with Barolo, with which it shares several attributes. A higher percentage of sand in Colonnello gives the wine its signature aromatics and refined tannins. This is an especially successful vintage for this wine." —Antonio Galloni

Wine Spectator

97 points

"Aromas of prune, dark chocolate, coffee and cream follow through to a full body, with masses of fruit and chewy tannins. This is concentrated and very structured. A big juicy wine. Best after 2012."

More about Aldo Conterno

Aldo Conterno is truly one of the Piedmonte greats, with a family history that spans five generations. Their Gran Bussia bottling is widely considered to be one of Barolo's greatest wines.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roasted guinea hen, agnolotti in sage butter, braised oxtail, or aged Toma Piemontese. White truffle dishes — risotto, fonduta, fresh tajarin — are the canonical pairing.

Tasting Profile

Perfumed and silky: dried rose petal, red cherry, sweet pipe tobacco, leather, and Bussia's earthy spice. Tannins fully resolved, acidity bright, the finish long, elegant, and lingering. Finesse over power.

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