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AS & JF Quenard, Persan Les 2 Jean, 2024

Red Wine from Savoie, France
$51.99
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Persan is one of the rarest red grapes in France — a Savoie native historically grown around Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, wiped out by phylloxera and frost, and down to only a few hectares in the world today. It survives because a handful of growers thought it was worth the trouble, and tasting it you can see why: spicy and peppery like Mondeuse but finer-boned, with a silkier texture and real tannic structure underneath. This comes from the estate's vines at Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte, hand-harvested and raised in a mix of barrel and concrete egg, so there's some framing from wood without the fruit being covered up. Anne-Sophie Quénard has led the domaine since 2020, the first woman in a family farming Chignin since 1644, with organic certification completed in 2024. Give it an hour open, or a year or three in the cellar — this is the one red here with something to gain from patience.

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More about AS & JF Quenard

The Savoie's mountain whites are some of France's best answers to a craving for mineral, limestone-driven wine, and this Chignin estate shows why. The Quénards have farmed Chignin's steep hillsides since 1644, passing the domaine from father to son for well over three centuries until Anne-Sophie Quénard took the reins. She is the first woman to lead it.

Her father Jean-François took over from his own father in 1987, after studying wine in Dijon and working in Bordeaux and California, and was influenced by the teachings of Jules Chauvet, the godfather of natural wine. Anne-Sophie trained at the wine school in Beaune before joining him. The family's 19 or so hectares sit on limestone-clay slopes beside the ruins of the old Château de Chignin, in the Alps south-east of Chambéry. About 90 percent of the vineyard work is done by hand, and the estate farms organically and has been working toward certification.

Fermentations use native yeasts and parcels are vinified separately. The whites come from Jacquère, Bergeron (Chignin's name for Roussanne) and Altesse, and the reds from peppery Mondeuse and the rare Persan. Look to the Jacquères, like Anne de la Biguerne, for saline, Chablis-like snap, and to the Mondeuse for crunchy, black-peppered mountain red.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Other Red Grape

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Earthy

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Polaner Selections has to say about this wine:

Varietals

Persan

Vineyard

Persan grown in the nearby village of Saint Jean de la Porte, an area known for it's bright and spicy reds. Just 9 hectares of this variety are grown in the world, all in the Savoie.

Orientation

South-facing

Soil

Clay-limestone and moraine

Viticulture

ECOCERT certification; hand-harvested.

Vinification

Vinified in a combination of concrete egg and oak barrel

Aging

Aged in a combination of concrete egg and oak barrel

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Duck breast, roast lamb, venison or a beef daube - it has the structure for real meat dishes. Also excellent with anything smoked or peppercorn-crusted, and with hard alpine cheeses.

Tasting Profile

Dark cherry, cranberry, black pepper and dried herbs, with a floral lift and a smoky edge from the barrel. Medium-bodied and firmly structured, with brisk acidity and fine, silky tannins that tighten on the finish. Dry, savory and long.