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Taittinger, Champagne Comtes de Champagne, 2004

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$359.00
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Taittinger's vineyards lean toward Pinot Noir, yet its flagship is all Chardonnay, and this 2004 Comtes de Champagne now has two decades behind it. The house's own plantings are 48% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier, so the Comtes is a deliberate choice. The cuvée draws only on the five Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs: Avize, Chouilly, Cramant, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and Oger. It isn't made every year. Since its creation in 1952, a Comtes has only been declared when the vintage meets the house's standard. For the 2004, only first-press juice went in, a small share was fermented in new oak, and the wine spent roughly eight to twelve years on its lees. Here's some trivia worth sharing while you pour: Comtes ages 18 metres underground, in chalk galleries carved in Gallo-Roman times beneath the Saint-Nicaise hill in Reims. If you want to see what top-tier Blanc de Blancs turns into with patience, this is a fine bottle to open, and it comes from one of the few Champagne houses still run by a family.

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Antonio Galloni

97 points

"The 2004 Comtes de Champagne is at a glorious peak of early maturity where the first notes of aromatic and flavor development have arrived, and yet the wine remains fresh. Apricot, baked apple tart, pastry and touch of reduction all run through this super-classic Comtes de Champagne. Now showing the gentlest hint of patina, the 2004 is magnificent. The delicately saline finish is a thing of beauty. At the outset, many Chefs de Cave believed the 2004s would not age, since at the time, yields were the highest ever in Champagne. Time has proved otherwise for the top wines. This is a great bottle of the 2004, the best I have had yet." —Antonio Galloni

Jancis Robinson

18.5 points

"Very neat, intense with notes of putty on the nose. Complex and well knit. Masses of acidity! Still quite tight. Very promising and one can certainly see a relationship with a grand cru Chablis here. Very youthful. Gentle bead. Great energy."

Wine Spectator

94 points

"A rich and enticing aroma of roasted hazelnut heralds this elegant blanc de blancs, with flavors of pastry, poached apple, crystallized honey and candied ginger riding the finely detailed mousse. This is a touch smoky, presenting a resonant minerality on the finish."

More about Taittinger

Founded in 1734, Taittinger is one of the few remaining family-run Champagne houses, now run by great-grandchildren Vitalie and Clovis. Third-largest vineyard owner in Champagne, they plant 48% Pinot Noir, 37% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Meunier. The Comtes de Champagne is all-Chardonnay magic.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Chardonnay

  • Vintage

    Champagne , 2004

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Raw oysters, butter-poached lobster, seared scallops with brown butter, turbot or sole in beurre blanc, or a wedge of aged Comté.

Tasting Profile

Expect the classic Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs profile: lemon, white flowers and chalky minerality, deepened by the toasty brioche and hazelnut notes that long ageing on the lees brings, with a light touch of oak adding roundness. Typically medium-bodied with a fine, creamy mousse and bright acidity, finishing dry, long and precise.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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