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Clandestin, Champagne Boreal Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, NV [2023] (Pre-Arrival ETA Early November 2026)

Sparkling Wine from Champagne, France
$99.99 $114.99
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Boréal ("northern") is half of a side-by-side experiment: Benoit Doussot bottles his north-facing Pinot Noir parcels on their own and his south-facing ones as a sister cuvée called Austral. Both are made every year, so you can taste what a slope's exposure does to Champagne. Doussot came to the Côte des Bar from Burgundy with no family vines. He started Clandestin in 2015, and the fruit comes from organic growers. You can see the Burgundian thinking in the whole project. The name means "hidden" or "undercover," and the idea is to vinify by soil type and exposure, the way a Côte d'Or domaine thinks about individual sites. This is a Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, meaning white Champagne from black grapes with no sweetening dosage, so nothing smooths over what the vineyard gives. Doussot ferments the base wines in large 500- and 600-liter oak barrels and bottles them at relatively low pressure, which makes for a more vinous Champagne. This bottling is from the 2023 base, the same year Clandestin finished its new hilltop winery in Landreville, built to give the wines more time in barrel and on their lees. If you can find a bottle of Austral, open the two together. It's one of the more fun lessons Champagne has to offer.

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Robert Parker

90 points

"The most chiseled wine in the range this year is the NV Brut Nature Boréal, derived from six north-facing parcels on clay-limestone soils—that is, from cooler sites. Disgorged in September 2024, it unfurls in the glass with aromas of nashi pear, orange zest and lily, mingled with white top notes of ripe red apple and quince. Medium-bodied and rich yet incisive, it’s animated by a tangy spine of acidity and concludes with a long, bone-dry finish. Benoît Doussot recalls that the harvest took place around August 20. The wine comes across as somewhat precocious and is best enjoyed in the near term." —Kristaps Karklins

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More about Clandestin

Clandestine means kept secret or done secretively, especially because illicit.

Everyone loves being in on a secret, which is exactly how we felt when we "discovered" the newest wine from Bertrand Gautherot, the winemaker for one of our favorite champagne houses: Vouette et Sorbée.

At first, Bertrand’s rigorous biodynamic farming made him an oddity in the Aube, a region where most farming had been industrial, yielding huge quantities for the large Champagne houses. But Bertrand’s mastery of the local terroir, and the incredible results of his chemical-free regime, led neighbors to ask for his help.

Now Gautherot and his assistant, Benoit Doussot, have taken advantage of those relationships to begin Champagne Clandestin. All Clandestin’s fruit comes from organic vineyards grown on Kimmeridgian soil. The winemaking is natural, like at Vouette et Sorbée.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Polaner Selections has to say about this wine:

Varietals
Pinot Noir
Varietal Notes
100% Pinot Noir
Vineyard
Mid-slope parcels in the Cote des Bars.
Orientation
North
Soil
Clay, limestone soils with kimmeridgian bands.
Viticulture
Vineyards farmed naturally - no herbicides or synthetic fertilizers used.
Vinification
100% 2023. Direct press, then racked into barrels for indigenous yeast fermentation.
Aging
12 months in 600L demi-muids.

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Warm gougères; raw oysters or a crudo of scallops; roast chicken with morels; mushroom and Gruyère tart; aged Comté; salmon sashimi or nigiri.

Tasting Profile

Expect a vinous, Pinot-driven Champagne: red apple, red berries and citrus, with a savoury, bready note from the lees and a subtle roundness from fermentation in large oak barrels. With zero dosage and cooler north-facing fruit, it typically runs taut and bone-dry, with bright acidity, a gentle, creamy mousse and a long, mineral finish.

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Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!

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