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Clandestin, Champagne Boreal Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, NV [2023] (Pre-Arrival ETA Early November 2026)

$99.99 $114.99
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Boréal ("northern") is half of a side-by-side experiment: Benoit Doussot bottles his north-facing Pinot Noir parcels on their own and his south-facing ones as a sister cuvée called Austral. Both are made every year, so you can taste what a slope's exposure does to Champagne. Doussot came to the Côte des Bar from Burgundy with no family vines. He started Clandestin in 2015, and the fruit comes from organic growers. You can see the Burgundian thinking in the whole project. The name means "hidden" or "undercover," and the idea is to vinify by soil type and exposure, the way a Côte d'Or domaine thinks about individual sites. This is a Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, meaning white Champagne from black grapes with no sweetening dosage, so nothing smooths over what the vineyard gives. Doussot ferments the base wines in large 500- and 600-liter oak barrels and bottles them at relatively low pressure, which makes for a more vinous Champagne. This bottling is from the 2023 base, the same year Clandestin finished its new hilltop winery in Landreville, built to give the wines more time in barrel and on their lees. If you can find a bottle of Austral, open the two together. It's one of the more fun lessons Champagne has to offer.

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More about Clandestin

Clandestine means kept secret or done secretively, especially because illicit.

Everyone loves being in on a secret, which is exactly how we felt when we "discovered" the newest wine from Bertrand Gautherot, the winemaker for one of our favorite champagne houses: Vouette et Sorbée.

At first, Bertrand’s rigorous biodynamic farming made him an oddity in the Aube, a region where most farming had been industrial, yielding huge quantities for the large Champagne houses. But Bertrand’s mastery of the local terroir, and the incredible results of his chemical-free regime, led neighbors to ask for his help.

Now Gautherot and his assistant, Benoit Doussot, have taken advantage of those relationships to begin Champagne Clandestin. All Clandestin’s fruit comes from organic vineyards grown on Kimmeridgian soil. The winemaking is natural, like at Vouette et Sorbée.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Pinot Noir

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What has to say about this wine:

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Warm gougères; raw oysters or a crudo of scallops; roast chicken with morels; mushroom and Gruyère tart; aged Comté; salmon sashimi or nigiri.

Tasting Profile

Expect a vinous, Pinot-driven Champagne: red apple, red berries and citrus, with a savoury, bready note from the lees and a subtle roundness from fermentation in large oak barrels. With zero dosage and cooler north-facing fruit, it typically runs taut and bone-dry, with bright acidity, a gentle, creamy mousse and a long, mineral finish.

Map of main subregions of the Champagne wine region.

Champagne

Champagne boasts some of the world’s greatest luxury brands with Krug, Cristal and, of course, Dom Perignon. But it’s also home to hundreds of small dynamic producers—farmers who grow their own grapes (often organically) and make (often with natural methods) tiny amounts of pure and absolutely delicious wine that reflect the individual personalities of their villages and terroirs. Toast with these wines, for sure. But also treat them like the great wines they are: taste, drink, explore!