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Giovanni Canonica, Barolo Paiagallo, 2013

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
by Giovanni Canonica
$219.00
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A cult traditionalist Barolo from a celebrated vintage, now in a beautiful place. Giovanni Canonica works tiny in the heart of Barolo village, a few hectares only, with long submerged-cap macerations and patient aging in large neutral botti. Paiagallo is the single MGA, a south-facing amphitheater on calcareous marl on the hill directly above the village. The 2013 vintage was classical and structured across Barolo, and Canonica typically holds his releases back well beyond the appellation minimum, meaning this wine arrives with twelve-plus years of cellar age already behind it. It is now squarely in its prime drinking window, perfumed and silky on the outside, still firmly Nebbiolo-tannic underneath. A wine for traditionalists. Decant.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"My initial thought was to focus on the 2013 vintage for this flight, but the Bartolo Mascarello is so young, I chose the 2012 instead. Canonica’s 2013 Barolo Paiagallo is another very pretty, translucent, classically built wine. Next to the other wines on the table, the Paiagallo comes across as a bit diffuse, with its aromatics, fruit and structure each in their own space and not woven together into a cohesive whole. The 2013 is still a delicious Barolo, but on this night, well, there are a lot of fabulous wines in the tasting." —Antonio Galloni

Jancis Robinson

15.5 points

"Barolo. Cask sample. Tasted blind. Maturing mid ruby with orange rim. Hints of candied fruit on the nose and a little herbal. Quite ripe and a little singed on the palate." —Walter Speller

More about Giovanni Canonica

Hidden legend in Barolo, living in a small agriturismo above the village, making wine in cellars below. Started with 1.5 hectares in Paiagallo (vines on the hill above town), later inherited older vines in Grinzane Cavour with a rare rose clone of Nebbiolo. No herbicides, no pesticides, only tradition. Production is insanely limited.

Wine Details

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

A traditionalist's match for brasato, ossobuco, agnolotti in brodo, or aged Parmigiano. Also a brilliant partner for white truffle pasta, roast pheasant, or a wedge of well-aged Castelmagno.

Tasting Profile

Rose petal, tar, dried orange peel, and macerated cherry on the nose. The palate is silky but firmly structured, with fine chalky tannins and lifted acidity carrying a savory, anise-tinged finish. Old-school Barolo poetry.

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