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Nervi-Conterno, Gattinara Molsino, 2018

$179.00

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From a blend of vineyards boasting volcanic soils with clay and minerals, this is 100% high-altitude Nebbiolo aged in giant casks for 30 months. Approachable now but will cellar nicely.

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In early 2018, Nebbiolo lovers everywhere became happier than a pig in truffles, when news broke that Roberto Conterno, of iconic Barolo cantina Giacomo Conterno, had officially purchased the historic Nervi estate in Gattinara.

One of Roberto’s many admirable traits is his commitment to uphold the meticulous standards that have earned the Conterno family wines their legendary status. He does not take expansion lightly, acquiring new vineyards with a level of deliberation and forethought that would make Daniel Day-Lewis’ role choices seem like hasty decisions.

In fact, Roberto has had a long relationship with Nervi, as somewhat of an unofficial advisor and close friend for many years prior to becoming the winemaker of this ancient estate, with holdings in the appellation’s most revered crus.

Of the ‘Alto Piemonte’ regions (those north of Barolo in the foothills of the Alps separating Italy and Switzerland), Gattinara is arguably the most exciting, thanks to its unique terroir: a vein of volcanic gravel, on steep, high-elevation slopes. The effect of extreme climate swings coax a distinct minerality and a tender fragility from nebbiolo, all without compromising their longevity. Indeed, some of the finest old nebbiolo we’ve experienced have been Nervi bottlings dating back to the cantina’s heydays of the 50’s and 60’s.

While talk of great terroir is certainly relevant, what cannot be overstated is that Conterno is unquestionably one of the greatest winemakers in the world.

Unfortunately, there have never really been days of affordable Conterno nebbiolo...until now. His masterful approach and studious dedication makes this third bottling of Nervi-Conterno a truly exciting chapter.

Professional Reviews

Antonio Galloni

AG 98
"The 2018 Gattinara Molsino emerges from a relatively warm, sunny spot on the estate at 400 meters in elevation. It presents myriad shades of dark cherry/plum fruit, sage, menthol, new leather and dark spices. Potent and virile in the glass, the Molsino possesses tremendous drive as it builds into a deep, beautifully resonant finish that is utterly captivating. It's a remarkable effort for the first year in which Roberto Conterno and his team were in charge. The ambition is pretty clear. Molsino will soon be the Monfortino of Alto Piemonte." -Vinous

Robert Parker

RP 96
"With vines planted in 1992 in a cozy and protected position within the folds of hills above Gattinara at 400 meters in elevation, the Molsino vineyard is known to produce extra fruit weight, concentration and power. This is definitely the case with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Gattinara Vigna Molsino. Of the two single-vineyard wines made at this estate (the other being the Vigna Valferana), I'm giving the aging edge to this bottle and have extended the drinking window as a result. During my tasting with Roberto Conterno, he described this wine as having "broader shoulders" and "more bite to the mouthfeel." Those are exact descriptions, and I would add that Molsino shows special dimension, in terms of both width and depth, with red and purple fruits that spread evenly over the palate. The wine's finish is powered by tarry smoke and campfire ash that add vertical lift and length."

Decanter

D 95
"Bright ruby in the glass, this preview is restrained, with citrus, rose bud, watermelon and tar aromas followed by darker fruit flavours such as dried cherry. A full-bodied and tight-knit structure between fruit and crisp acidity is supported by the broad, dense palate, with firm yet ripe, crunchy tannins on the finish. Overall it's marked by an amazing long, savoury character."

What importer Polaner Selections has to say about this wine...

VINEYARD
The best grapes from the Molsino cru are selected for this bottling.
SOIL
Volcanic soil rich in minerals and clay - with good drainage.
VITICULTURE
Hand-harvested.
VINIFICATION
Gentle destemming and crushing. Fermentation in truncated conical oak vats at controlled temperature.
AGING
Aged for about four years in large, wood vats.

Details

  • Grape Variety

    Nebbiolo

  • Vintage

    2018

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Floral , Tannic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Full Bodied

Customer Reviews

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