Domaine Ratte is proof that biodynamic, low- or no-sulfur Jura doesn't have to taste funky. The wines are clean, focused and luminous, and they reached cult status within a few years of the first bottling.

Michel-Henri and Françoise Ratte put their vineyards together in Arbois starting in 1989, with vines from Françoise's family plus parcels they bought. For a quarter of a century they sold their grapes to the local cooperative before going it alone in the mid-2010s, and their son Quentin has since joined them. Today they farm about nine hectares spread over Arbois sites including Les Corvées, Grand Curoulet, Prélevront and Clos Maire, on the region's marls, clays and limestone. The vines have been farmed organically and biodynamically from the start and are Demeter certified, and some are very old, including a small block of Savagnin planted more than a century ago.

The cellar is a practical, no-frills space and the approach is hands-off: native yeasts, no oak, and often no added sulfur at all. The whites are ouillé, topped up rather than aged under the Jura's veil of yeast, so the Chardonnay and Savagnin taste of the site rather than of oxidation. The reds, from Pinot Noir, Trousseau and Poulsard, are light, bright and made for the dinner table.