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Schloss Lieser, Niederberg Helden Beerenauslese, 1997

$169.99
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A Mosel Beerenauslese with nearly three decades in bottle, from a vintage that also marks a turning point for the estate: 1997 is the year Thomas and Ute Haag bought Schloss Lieser outright. They had arrived in 1992 to run a castle estate that was down to six hectares, almost all of it in Lieser Niederberg Helden, and spent five years there before buying it. Niederberg Helden is now a Grosse Lage (the VDP's grand cru tier). It's a steep slope of blue Devonian slate just east of the village of Lieser, and its south-facing hillside curves inward to trap the heat. That warmth helps explain why the site is known for great noble sweet wines as well as dry ones. Beerenauslese means "berry selection," and it's one of the top rungs of German sweet wine. Bottles like this don't turn up often, and this one has had time to show what aging does to Riesling at this level. Pour small glasses and take it slowly.

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Wine Spectator

91 points

"There's an earthy, flinty element in this white, as well as lime, peach and floral aromas and flavors. Its richness is kept in check by racy acidity, leaving an overall impression of intensity. Fine length and aftertaste."

More about Schloss Lieser

Schloss Lieser is a 175-year-old Neo-Renaissance castle on the Mosel where Thomas Haag has quietly become one of Germany's greatest Riesling makers. Spontaneous fermentations with natural yeasts, half stainless steel and half traditional barrels, minimal intervention. They farm Grand Cru slopes and make wines that taste like specific places—Lieserer Niederberg Helden, Brauneberger Juffer. This is Mosel Riesling done the difficult, rewarding way.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Riesling

  • Vintage

    1997

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Crisp

  • Sweetness

    Sweet

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Roquefort or Stilton with walnuts; seared foie gras or a foie gras terrine with brioche; apricot or peach tarte tatin; crème brûlée; or skip dessert and sip it on its own.

Tasting Profile

Expect the hallmarks of a mature Mosel Beerenauslese: dried apricot, honey, candied orange peel and the marmalade richness of noble rot, with long bottle age typically adding caramel, beeswax and a hint of petrol. The texture is thick and luscious, but Riesling's bright Mosel acidity keeps it lively, finishing long and sweet rather than cloying.

WINE GUIDES

German Wines

Is there a better grape than Riesling? Is there a better value? Its fruit purity, its perfume, and its mineral nuance are all unparalleled. And for centuries, the top German Rieslings were priced accordingly: at least as expensive as the top red wines of Bordeaux and Burgundy. But nowadays you could spend a lifetime exploring Germany’s great Riesling-producing regions while staying well within your budget. You might take an occasional break to try Germany’s other white grapes or perhaps a glass of Spätburgunder (the local name for Pinot Noir). It’s time to get started!