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Uehara Shuzo, Ginjo Sake Furosen Kameno-o, NV

Sake from Japan, Japan
$39.99
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Kameno-o is an heirloom table rice, selected by a farmer in the 1890s and later woven into the ancestry of both Koshihikari and Sasanishiki, and it brews into sake with more grip and savor than the modern brewing rices. Uehara Shuzo, in Takashima on the northwest shore of Lake Biwa in Shiga, is the right brewery for it: seventh generation, brewing since 1862, and stubbornly old-fashioned. They polish their rice in-house, build the starter by the yamahai method - waiting for ambient yeast and lactobacilli to show up rather than pitching cultured strains - ferment in wooden vats, and press on a tenbin, a wooden beam-and-weight press that takes three days where a modern machine takes half of one. The rice here is milled to 55 percent, and the sake comes out full and savory rather than delicate. Drink it with food; it takes gentle warming as happily as a chill.

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More about Uehara Shuzo

Uehara Shuzo makes sake the slow, old-fashioned way, and you can taste it: savory, round, a little wild, and happiest at the dinner table rather than in a tasting glass.

The brewery sits in Takashima, in the snowy country on the northwest shore of Lake Biwa in Shiga Prefecture, and the same family has run it since 1862; the current generation is the seventh. Their label is Furōsen.

Almost everything here runs against modern sake practice. Starters are built by the yamahai method, relying on the yeasts that live in the brewery rather than a cultured strain from a lab, which makes Uehara one of only a handful of producers working without cultivated yeast at all. Fermentation takes place in wooden vats, and the sake is pressed on a tenbin, a wooden tank-and-lever press that takes three days and nights to do its work. The rice is grown locally by contract farmers committed to sustainable practices, and the range includes heirloom strains like Kame-no-o alongside the classic Yamada Nishiki.

Expect sake with real acidity, umami and texture rather than perfumed ginjo polish. These take gentle warming as happily as a chill, and they were made for food.

Wine Details

  • Vintage

    NV

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Earthy , Floral

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Light Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Yakitori, miso-glazed black cod, tempura, roast pork belly, aged cheeses, or a bowl of ramen.

Tasting Profile

Ripe orchard fruit and steamed rice with an earthy, floral edge. Full and savory on the palate, with soft acidity and a long, gently dry finish.