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AS & JF Quenard, Chignin Bergeron Chez les Beroux, 2024

White Wine from Savoie, France
$44.99
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Bergeron is Savoie's name for Roussanne, and it is only allowed to call itself that on the steep slopes of Chignin — this bottle comes from the sheerest parcel the domaine owns, so steep the soil has to be worked with a winch. The site is limestone scree on a hillside below the Bauges massif, around 370 meters, which is what keeps a naturally broad, warm-natured grape lifted instead of heavy. Anne-Sophie Quénard has run the family estate since 2020, the first woman to do so in a line farming Chignin since 1644, and the domaine finished organic certification in 2024. Hand-harvested, fermented with indigenous yeasts and raised entirely in tank, with no oak, so the roundness here comes from the grape and the site rather than a barrel. It's the richest white the estate makes: pour it into a real wine glass and serve it around 50°F rather than ice cold.

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More about AS & JF Quenard

The Savoie's mountain whites are some of France's best answers to a craving for mineral, limestone-driven wine, and this Chignin estate shows why. The Quénards have farmed Chignin's steep hillsides since 1644, passing the domaine from father to son for well over three centuries until Anne-Sophie Quénard took the reins. She is the first woman to lead it.

Her father Jean-François took over from his own father in 1987, after studying wine in Dijon and working in Bordeaux and California, and was influenced by the teachings of Jules Chauvet, the godfather of natural wine. Anne-Sophie trained at the wine school in Beaune before joining him. The family's 19 or so hectares sit on limestone-clay slopes beside the ruins of the old Château de Chignin, in the Alps south-east of Chambéry. About 90 percent of the vineyard work is done by hand, and the estate farms organically and has been working toward certification.

Fermentations use native yeasts and parcels are vinified separately. The whites come from Jacquère, Bergeron (Chignin's name for Roussanne) and Altesse, and the reds from peppery Mondeuse and the rare Persan. Look to the Jacquères, like Anne de la Biguerne, for saline, Chablis-like snap, and to the Mondeuse for crunchy, black-peppered mountain red.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Roussanne

  • Vintage

    2024

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Organic

  • Style

    Aromatic

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What Polaner Selections has to say about this wine:

Vineyard

Roussanne grown in the domaine's steepest parcel

Orientation

South-facing

Soil

Limestone scree, very stony

Viticulture

ECOCERT certification. Soils wroked with a winch, hand-harvested.

Vinification

Fermented in tank

Aging

Aged in tank on the lees

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Rich enough for roast chicken, pork loin with apples, or a creamy mushroom risotto, and a natural with alpine dishes like tartiflette or a gratin. Also good with lobster, scallops in butter, or a mild curry.

Tasting Profile

Apricot, quince, honeysuckle and a little beeswax on the nose. Medium to full-bodied and dry, rounder and more textural than most Savoie whites, but with firm acidity and a stony bite that keeps it from feeling heavy. The finish is long, faintly bitter in the good way, like almond skin.