Bartolo Mascarello, Barbera, 2017

Name: Bartolo Mascarello, Barbera, 2017
Brand: Private
SKU: NYC-[CNSN]-TTSUMMER0826-092226-48-5
Price: 69.99 USD
Availability: OutOfStock

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy

$69.99

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Barbera from one of Barolo's most revered traditionalist houses, grown inside the commune of Barolo itself. Bartolo Mascarello takes its Barbera from parts of the San Lorenzo vineyard that suit Nebbiolo less well. So this is Barolo-cru ground, just the corners Nebbiolo doesn't love. The house makes only small amounts of Barbera next to its Barolo, which is most of what it produces, and it treats the Barbera the same way: old cement vats, and a cap held under with a porous wooden board weighed down by a brick (no fancy kit here). Bartolo built that low-tech approach, with native yeasts, no temperature control and neutral botti, some of them ancient chestnut casks. He made no crus and no barrique wines, and he called himself "the last of the Mohicans." His daughter Maria Teresa took over in 2005 and makes the wine as her father did, maybe with a bit more elegance and consistency. When the house's importer calls its Barbera vibrant, juicy and thoroughly Piedmontese, that's the point: this is the everyday bottle from a cellar whose Barolo you'd wait years to open.

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Antonio Galloni

90 points

"A gorgeous wine, Mascarello's 2017 Barbera d'Alba is soft, rich and pliant, yet retains its classic mid-weight feel and sense of structure. Cedar, tobacco, mint and sweet red cherry fruit are pushed forward. The 2017 is supple and forward, with tons of near and medium-term appeal." —Antonio Galloni

Jancis Robinson

17 points

"Deep crimson. Intense, perfumed blueberry nose. Sappy blueberry fruit and very long, intense, fresh finish. Much ‘lighter’ than its 15% suggests." —Walter Speller

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

Grape Variety

Barbera
Vintage

2017
Size

750ml
Farming Practice

Sustainable
Style

Elegant
Sweetness

Dry
Body

Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

What has to say about this wine:

Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with sausage ragù, agnolotti del plin in roasting juices, braised rabbit with olives, or a sausage and mushroom pizza.

Tasting Profile

Expect traditional Barbera from the Barolo commune: sour and black cherry, plum and a savoury, earthy edge, with no new-oak vanilla thanks to cement fermentation and old neutral casks. Typically medium-bodied, with Barbera's hallmark bright acidity and soft, gentle tannins, finishing juicy and fresh. Think of it as a lighter, more food-friendly counterpart to the house's Barolo.