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Bartolo Mascarello, Barbera, 2021

$79.99
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This is the way into Bartolo Mascarello that doesn't ask you to wait a decade: a Barbera d'Alba from the Barolo estate whose name is shorthand for tradition. Barolo makes up most of what the house produces, and Barbera is one of only a few other wines it makes, all in tiny amounts. Bartolo built his reputation by refusing to follow the region's modernizing trends, and he summed it up on a hand-drawn label reading "No Barriques, No Berlusconi." His daughter Maria Teresa now runs the estate, and she has kept the cellar happily low-tech. Every wine the house makes is fermented in old concrete tanks. After the first maceration she holds the cap under with a porous wooden board weighed down by a brick. That's not a gimmick. It's how this cellar works, and you can taste those convictions here on a Tuesday night.

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Antonio Galloni

93 points

"The 2021 Barbera d'Alba is a fabulous, classy wine. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, licorice and baking spice infuse the 2021 with striking complexity. Medium in body, but also quite fleshy and succulent, this is wonderfully appealing. Maria Teresa Mascarello ripped out her Barbera vines in 2020 because of disease, so the 2021 is a blend of purchased fruit from vineyards in Alba, Treiso and Diano." —Antonio Galloni

Kerin O'Keefe

93 points

"Aromas of ripe black cherry, blackberry and clove follow over to the succulent, delicious palate along with white pepper and a hint of hazelnut. Spending two years in casks, it’s enveloping and ready to enjoy now thanks to the great fruit and smooth tannins. Drink through 2025." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Barbera

  • Vintage

    2021

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Sustainable

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Agnolotti del plin in butter and sage, tajarin with sausage ragù, salumi and aged Toma, pizza with fennel sausage, braised pork with peppers.

Tasting Profile

Expect traditional Barbera d'Alba: sour cherry, red plum and a touch of earth and dried herbs, with no new-oak vanilla in the way. Typically medium-bodied, with Barbera's hallmark bright, juicy acidity and soft, gentle tannins, finishing dry, fresh and savoury. Think of a good Chianti's food-friendly lift, with rounder fruit and less grip.