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Bartolo Mascarello, Barbera d'Alba, 2022

Red Wine from Piedmont, Italy
$59.99
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Barbera d'Alba from Bartolo Mascarello, the Barolo estate whose name is shorthand for tradition, and one of only a few wines the house makes in small quantities alongside its Barolo. Bartolo became famous for refusing to follow the region's modernizing trends, and he summed up his stance with a hand-drawn label reading "No Barriques, No Berlusconi." His daughter Maria Teresa now runs the estate and keeps the methods happily low-tech. Every wine the house makes, Barbera included, is fermented in old cement vats. After the first maceration she holds the cap under with a porous wooden board weighed down by a brick. The wines then go into large Gerbellotto botti to age, not small new barrels. If the Barolo is the bottle you wait years to open, this lets you taste the same cellar and the same convictions on a weeknight.

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Antonio Galloni

92 points

"The 2022 Barbera d'Alba marries the richness of the year with the classicism that runs through all these wines at this address. Succulent red cherry/plum fruit, spice, leather, menthol and blood orange fill out the layers. Soft contours wrap it all together." —Antonio Galloni

Robert Parker

93 points

"This wine works very well to extract the character and generosity of a hot vintage. The Bartolo Mascarello 2022 Barbera d'Alba demonstrates how balanced this grape remains in terms of its flavor profile, even as summer temperatures rise. The bouquet reveals sweet blackberry and candied Mon Chéri cherry. The alcohol is up there, touching 15%, but that characteristic Barbera acidity zeros it out. The San Lorenzo Barbera vineyard was ripped out in 2020 and replanted in 2022. Luckily, the baby vines survived the hot summer, Maria Teresa Mascarello tells me, only because she made extra effort to drill the roots deep into the ground. San Lorenzo was harvested for the first time in 2024, meaning fruit was purchased for this vintage. When the 2024 vintage is released, one-third of the fruit will be from San Lorenzo." —Monica Larner

Kerin O'Keefe

93 points

"The enveloping 2022 Bartolo Mascarello Barbera d’Alba is full-bodied and delicious, doling out layers of ripe raspberry, black cherry, white pepper and ground clove. Made with grapes sourced in the Barbaresco zone because the estate’s Barbera vines in San Lorenzo in Barolo had to be grubbed up in 2020 and replanted in 2022 after an attack of Flavescence dorée, it’s polished and fresh, with surprisingly fresh acidity for the hot, dry vintage. Drink through 2027." —Kerin O'Keefe

More about Bartolo Mascarello

Bartolo made a name for himself resisting the modernizing trends in the region, encapsulated by a message he put on a hand-drawn bottle label: “No Barriques, No Berlusconi”. He died a few years ago but the domain is now in the gifted hands of his daughter Maria Theresa, who has raised the profile even further with a series of fabulous vintages. Still hewing rigorously to tradition (long macerations, and no barriques!), they are one of the very few domains to still release just one Barolo made from a blend of all their parcels (as was generally the case before single vineyard cuvees started to appear in the 1960s). 30% of the Barolo comes from Rocche di Annunziata in La Morra; the rest from three different vineyards in the commune of Barolo: Rue, San Lorenzo and Cannubi.

Wine Details

  • Grape Variety

    Barbera

  • Vintage

    2022

  • Size

    750ml

  • Farming Practice

    Traditional

  • Style

    Elegant

  • Sweetness

    Dry

  • Body

    Medium Bodied

Flatiron's Take

From the Importer

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Tasting Notes & Food Pairings

Perfect Pairings

Tajarin with meat ragù, pizza margherita, sausage and peppers, braised rabbit with tomato and olives, or a plate of salami and aged Toma.

Tasting Profile

Expect traditional Barbera d'Alba: sour and black cherry, ripe plum and a hint of dried herbs, with no new-oak vanilla, since the wine ferments in cement and ages in large casks. It's typically medium-bodied, with Barbera's hallmark bright, juicy acidity and soft, light tannins, and it finishes fresh, savoury and dry.

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